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Can't imagine why I'd want to insulate a cooler with paint... I'm going to go the route of a premade rail type cooler. Does anyone know the diameter of the stock cooler's pipe? I think I'm going to cut it off up front and use it to feed the rail cooler to avoid having to bend the tubing all...

I love how everyone becomes a legal adviser when threads like this show up... <CUT> Oh fuck it.... if you people can't do the homework yourself... tough. It's not worth the effort to try and explain any of this.

Have you checked for error codes yet?

You have to be running a MAP sensor to use boost control.

They're crimped or glued into a small recess in the side of the cylinder.

I wouldn't... at least not unless I started doing a lot more driving out of the city at night. I do realize that they can be a HUGE help though, and they can be great in snowy areas if you get ice starting to build up too.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=118 I thought they didn't operate on the pre89's regardless of the headlight position... I could be wrong, I only ever tried them out a couple times though. I'd probably just wire it for power from the marker lights.

They're not terribly bright and they're easy as hell to miss as well. It doesn't light up until the handle is pulled, well, then you're in. So unless you know it's there and think to pull the handle to give yourself something to aim for with the key you might never see it.

That's one of the three options I've got open to me: DIY copper cooler, GTE cooler or a small aftermarket cooler. If I go aftermarket I'm thinking something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Derale-13222-Frame-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CJ48YS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive If I went copper...

My 88's got it.

It's pictured in the lock set rebuild thread... can't remember whose thread it was.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Find out the error code(S) and post back

Well, I'm N/A so no stock oil cooler present... I could buy one, but in that case I think I'll just try to find something small. Does the temperature need to be regulated? Can I forgo running hoses all the way up front by just cutting the stock cooler and running hose off of that? EDIT: I...

I just figured it would be as good, if not a little better, given that it'll be copper as opposed to the stock steel one... just thinking of reliability. Just so much to shoe-horn in there you know?

I've been looking around and can't find any info on this. I need to swap out my PS cooler as it's in the way of the oil cooler I want to install. The GE oil cooler jumps across the gap between the bumper support and the rad (and A/C condenser). I need to place my oil cooler between where the...

The TEMS display uses LED die epoxied to the surface. These can be scraped off with a razor and replaced with 0805 surface mount LEDs.... it's a bitch though. I can't remember 100%, but I think the driver's door key ring is a 12v LED, can someone verify this?

Okay, a crimped pipe is a bad thing... can't see what you're referring to in that picture, but if it's crushed it probably should be replaced. The VAF (AFM) is the aluminum box that's bolted to the air filter housing. It's got the big black plastic "D" on the top, your pic shows it very well...

Well, AJ, for most of what you describe I'd vote imagination... but, given the size of injectors you're running it may be a genuine reflection of the adjustments the ECU is making. Hell, your injectors flow about double that of the stock injectors. So when the ECU tries to pull x amount from the...

Nothing wrong with replacing the TPS even if it's not causing a code. I'd at least test it to see if the resistance moves steadily or has a lot of pits and spikes when moving though. Same goes for the VAF. (I do agree though... make sure there's actually a reason to replace it. It may be old but...

Er, there are more than one thing on the AFM that you test... so where did you get .2?