I checked car-part.com (it lists parts available in auto wreckers) and they only seem to have pre 89 rear crossmembers.
I thought I remember reading that the 89+ were more prone to cracking because of the added bracing making it to stiff.
I tried searching for the thread where I read about it...
I had the same on my old car; it was not quiet and had an annoying drone around 2-3k rpm.
If you want something quiet, save up and get the tanabe touring medallion.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?122163-Mustang-5.0-Rack
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?136900-manual-rack-convresion.-has-anyone-done-this
Take a look; these two threads go over what you are talking about.
If you read some of the comments you’ll notice...
The second half was even better and really in depth tuning wise.
Initial D fifth stage episode 2 is up
http://www.animeplus.tv/initial-d-fifth-stage-episode-2
Funny enough I was impatiently waiting for the next episode of Initial D so I started watching Wangan Midnight. I’m on the 13 episode right now and will probably finish watching them this weekend (nothing else to do, I am in a cast for another couple weeks).
It's a good show and I like...
If you are just looking to mess around I would suggest:
-Stiffer suspension (may want actual coilovers) and sway bars.
-Welded diff or Weir MAXGRIP KIT #3
-And a bucket seat (hard to control a car when you're getting thrown about)
Just a note: I remember a guy that drifted his mk3 saying...
Spec Stage 2
Holds up to 460ft/lbs of torque, has a full face disc and only a slight increase in pedal feel. It should be very streetable.
I had an Action Stage 2 clutch it was good but I remember it chattering a bit. That could also be from the light weight flywheel (I think I’ll stick with...
Like Gandavi & Numba1Stuna said, the oil on the plugs is very likely from the valve cover gaskets.
Your 'possible vacuum leak' could be causing the lack of power and the issue with starting or the timing could be off. See the Toyota Supra Repair Manual (TSRM)...
^^Agreed
Also, I would pull the head, check for unusual wear and that a piston isn't hitting the head (thus a spun bearing).
And cut the oil filter open and check for metal shavings.
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