Search results

Oh yeah. No it's not like match start. It jumps across. ---------- Post added at 08:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 PM ---------- However my arc is very radical. It jumps all over the place. I'm assuming this would be fixed with cleaner base material and nice butt welds. Ie no big...

yeah i think. im not too familiar with electricity welding. im old school oxy acetylene. but i have a trigger and a pedal. i wired the pedal up and not too sure that it actually does anything other than start the arc. i think im going to undertake my own ffim. (when i get good enough) and...

i just got my dc tig welder to do aluminum. im not that great at it yet. ill get pics up of the first successful time it worked. (ie, it didnt just buzz and spark and kill the arc and burn the material) camera died when i was trying to get pics. i know most of you are not in utah but...

starions all the way. way better looking. plus lighter. two great points. like ^this guy says. get them in 16x9. a little harder to find but worth it. in fact i may just get those now. hahah. naw i wont steal your thunder.

i bought pass racing pulleys for my corolla. ill never make that mistake again. 150 bucks for nothing. an anodized piece of aluminum. absolutely no difference in performance at all.

I have one sitting on my shelf also. I heard about a little trick we can do to see if they even make a difference. Make a little gasket out of a cereal box or something. Paint it black and put it between the strut bar and the body, tighten loosely. Go driving around making hard turns. Then take...

so im thinking about making homemade tierods out of solid steel bar. maybe SS. i will heat it up and bend it if i have to get around something. found the mustang II manual steering rack's on ebay for a little over $100. just gotta figure out the mounting and the tierods. looks like its been...

imo you should just hook the stock afm back up and see if that changes anything. cheap and easy to do. then you'll see if thats giving you any issues

or we could have a meet at the guys house who has a blown head-gasket. and an engine pulling party.

that thing is insane. towards the end when he's pullin hard you can see the passengers seat getting pulled back. then when its a rear view camera angle you see him take off and a cop drives through the intersection. haha.

i would first look through the drive shaft. make sure its all bolted up correctly my old nova had this issue where it would vibrate at high speeds really bad. turned out the drive shaft was installed all wrong. it was jimmy'd in there with a bunch of spare parts. and the guy i got it from...

dude negative anything sucks. actually anything below +32 degrees sucks. it sucks when its 30 degrees out and im like, man its gettin warm around here. hahaha.

i sure hope you got that intercooler level, cause if you didnt it is not going to flow very well at all. haha jk:icon_bigg

dooooood more pics. i've been thinking about an sc myself lately. more comfort and retain power.

thanks everyone!!

dude, awesome. thanks guys. i love when the problem has been taken care of by other people. makes life a little easier.

so my rear hatch is letting water into the trunk. i know of at least one other person with the same problem. is it the window seals or what. has anyone figured out a fix to this problem. i had gallon'S of water in my spare tire well. time to POR15 it.

maybe theres a way to just keep the oem mazda rx7 tie rods. unless the rack is much different than any other rack ive ever seen it should be do-able. as long as the tie-rods move in and out whats stopping you from just adjusting them in or out to the point where they reach the spindle. it'd be...

i think ill be able to meet if the cruise comes by my house. unless i get a temp tag. then i will come along for a cruise too. how much do temps cost.

i'd prefer a true manual rack. how does this one feel. in the past i have just capped off my power steering rack lines and ran it like that. fine when moving but hard when at a stand still.