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Call or go on sf for champion toyota or elmhurst toyota. Should be about 15$ each for the tail seals and they will last another 20 years.

Damn. Stock block? head? Stock weight? Interested to see what the results will be. That definably has to be a fun n/a car.

Tail light failure sensor under the drivers side light. If you take it apart you will prolly see a burn mark in the circuit board. Just replace with the same color box with a used one. You can hard wire it but i dont like that. Rather have it factory. Up to you.

Sweet.

Thats a sick setup. You going to dyno it?

If you spray on a rag first its not that bad. If you spray a shit ton on it will mess it up.

Are you running a ems?

I would only use the oem bell housing as well. As for xtd, there garbage. Some guys like them and dont mind changing them out when they break. As for me i hate pulling transmission with the engine in the car and no lift and trans jack.

Ya. Is it something that is visual or on the inside that you wont see? I would use brake cleaner on a rag and be care full.

Clean it off first. Adhesive wont stick to armor all.

Thats pretty sick. Driven it yet?

Start with the fuses.

Rock auto has some of the best pricing for non factory autoparts.

If the crank was full of metal it would have seen the bearing which would have knocked shortly after. If it was a used pan could be left overs. I love cutting open filters.

Comprehensive Lighting Modification Thread I searched light modification thread and it was the first 1. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?76463-Comprehensive-Lighting-Modification-Thread&highlight=light+modification+thread

Pm 4U2QUIK. He makes the adapter plates for both r154 and w58. W58 is pretty cheap but wont handle 500hp. The quality of his parts are awesome.

Seems more of an improper turbo setup than surge. How would you get a turbo to make those nosies without any restrictions? You wouldnt.

You cant get surge from acceleration. It only happens when letting off the throttle when the air has nowhere to go. I would try the softest spring.

Tsrm says to use loctite or fipg. Done both and never had a problem.

Why would you want to take it out? Just curious.. I cant say for sure but if you swap for the clock and plug it in im pretty sure it would work. Seeing how it was an option and some cars without it but still had the wiring.