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How did you adjust it? It can be mis adjusted but not throw a code. Just need to find its happy place.

Yay!:biggrinbo Is that the car with the hsd coils?

That metal bracket doesnt look stock to me. the round bar one. personally id just look for a better condition one. There pretty cheap at pick and pull. I found a clean 89+ one at pnp for 20 on 50% off day.

I use oem toyota and nothing else. When in doubt put it in water on the stove with a thermometer. 9/10 aftermarket stats blow balls. radiod if you havnt had this problem and its just started happening lately id be looking for some sort of pin hole leak that only likes to leak when hot and...

Not really. cams are out and valves are close. Head is upside down. Can easily blow out and shavings that get in the port and throw the hole head in the hot tank. Yes its better but not necessary for a simple machining of the head for a stock gasket with no valve job. And when you say we do...

Pressure test the cooling system. What cap are you using?

Did you have a valve job done? IF all you did was have it resurfaced they dont need to take the valves out and wont replace the seals unless asked. There is no pcv valve on the 7m. It uses a small orfice on the throttle body port which is what gets used 90% of time for vacuum on the pcv...

My jz one is polished stock. Im not a big shiney part guy. rather have powder coated black or black chrome. Or even matte black.

Those are some big ic pipes.

Oil can also burn white/gray. Thats usually what you see when valve stem seals go bad. The oil in the intake could be just from pcv and the real problem is valve stem seals. Know way to know without testing.

Stock struts werent made for lowering springs so they dont last as long with them..

Sounds like excessive blow by from the pcv system. Either that or valve stem seals. Can do combustion gas test and compression test to rule out bhg tho. Compression check with all plugs out, then re test with a small amount of oil in each cylinder, If the reading go up with oil its the rings.

Pointing to no1. Then you use a timing light and looking at the crank pulley there are numbers where you set it to zero. Jump te1 and e1 and turn the dist to 10 and tighten the bolt and forget about it.

Its better to keep it. Its not part of the egr system. Basically there is pressure in the tank and lots of vapors. Those vapors and pressure vent off into the charcoal canister, which there is charcoal in it that converts any liquid fuel into vapor, and then its gets bleed off back into the...

Anybody using the billet magnefine filter? Anyone powdercoated there res either?

Sounds like that line is for the charcoal canister unless its the fuel return. Its about the same 3/8th size line. Id say smell it for fuel but i guess that wouldnt really work for determining if its cc or fuel return lol. Fuel return is just a clamp on hose. Low pressure. Id look for that...

I do the dp/elbow tight as they light to back out if not. Same for the turbo.

Isnt it just a flared fitting right>? I forget. If it is you just hack off the pinched end, slide the fitting over the tube and then re flare it. For the other one do you have a charcoal canister?

Get a combustion gas tester for the cooling system and do a compression check with all the plugs out and the engine hot.

Damn same here. Time for all black arp 12pt bolts everywhere. Thats almost as bad as the prices for AN.