Search results

60+

100% feedback. But it's red and they used acl instead of clevite. Idk man.

Id drop like 3-4in front and 1.5-2in back. With stance You can adjust so top of the tire looks good. Just be sure of where you are driving and go sideways on steep driveways and watch for cars. Depending on the condition of the shift knob id keep it. Looks like crap with it off. But itd be...

Radiators get painted stock. The paint was not his problem unless he blocked the gaps between the fins so there was no airflow.

There is no fp up vsv on the 1jz... First thing you should do is check the codes.

Make sure the cams and journals are spotless and lubed before you put them back in.

^Hes auto so he would need all kinds of length if its not needed.

I would think the 6265 would be better for the 7m. Its 3l like the 2jz... And precision says its rated for 695. Close enough but ya. You prolly wont really see a difference and the 6262 will spool faster. IF its not enough power or top end change the housing or switch to the 6765.

No one remans blocks. IF the mains were out of spec there out of spec. Having to loose of a main bearing will cause knock. Rod knock happens either from bhg, running low on oil, or improper bearing clearances. These motors dont just get it for a reason like people think.

Mystery engine. Doubt any of them are low milage these days. 7m hasnt been used for over 15 years so what ever is coming through is the left overs. You can look at the cylinders through the bottom if you have the pan off.

Gt3776 or 3782. The inlet sticks out farther and the outlet is straight. All the 40's have a little curve at the end. http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT37/GT3776_452159_1.htm

All depends on the tune and how much boost you run and your motor can handle.

Ya i wouldnt even bother with the jdm engines. There a joke for the 7m half of the time. And to use a mhg properly you will have to disassemble the block anyways to machine the block for the mhg. What pistons were used? Any marks on the cylinders?

You just needed the center bearing.

There is thrust washers for the crank right? Does it go away when you push the clutch in?

O2 goes by turbo and wide band down stream.

What were the clearances specifically? Mains and rods. Was the oil pump ds bearings good? Or replaced? Motor mounts good? Valves adjusted? Does the knock go up with rpm? Did you prime the oil system before starting?

With the key on you should have 12v at b+. Chaser motor has a fp comp. Idk how you wired it up but you need b+ hooked up at the c1 connector.

There is other places that there just as cheap than eBay. Xs power manifold will work fine. I'll be usig a cxracing one. But t4.

Lol it's posted in the link in the post right above yours.