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Check battery terminals for corrosion and tightness.

Pictures says alot. So on the smaller factory harness (usually 5 wire plug) do you have the colors (black,yellow,red,white) all in that harness?

I mean forrealzzz?? He goes by pimp... and his avatar says boost gets you laid. Seriously need I say more then what the moderates have already said.

Pull out your Cold start injector and see if its clogged by carbon. Just another suggestion.

Borg n warner s300 turbo? I haven't seen any run one of these yet.. just wondering myself why? http://www.bullseyepower.com/S300.asp

As a new member of SM welcome. As stated by many other helpful members, ask questions with proper punctuation and grammar ( or close enough to make it out). As a newbie your get flamed... we've all been there. Again welcome and your answers to the problem is replied by other members.

Wrong section.

Run whats tested and true. NGK only and Autolite as a substitute. Those E3 are all hype.

Other way of running 10psi without fuel cut is to extract the screw out in the blocked off passageway. This is the same theory with the LEX AFM as It will allow enough air pass the AFM to be undetected. First but not least.. check for boost leaks, fuel cut is GOOD, maintenance.

Yes the tool seems like a good one to have around when owning any toyota. I on the other hand found a easy way of using three screwdrivers. I will contact the shop on monday and make extreme fussing and yapping.

I forgot who.. but it was a member on here. I'm sorry.. and yes I did use the forum for information. Its alright... whats done is done.

Yea. They seem fine... well lets say... installed oil scraper wrong... end up tearing it out myself on the car ( drop subframe) and now valve out of specs. The thing is I got a recommendation for a SM member. Alright SO now this is my first reading off my first shim Going off ISNMS...

Well Cascar is being assholes about the situation. I thought most of the valve lash are not within specs? I mean besides the 0 gap one which of course is obvious. Looks like I will need thicker ones.. but only after I do thickness. I asked them twice if the valves were adjusted properly and...

That would suck so so so bad. Thank goodness it's only been 600 miles. What do you guys think about the clearance? Normal?

I know. Zum your from Sacramento.... My motor was built by Cascar.

Thanks Jubd.. this is what I went off with and the worksheet that was provided by a SM member ISNMS on here. My main concern is that have anyone seen such Huge gap ( valve measurements)? It just looks so bad. Especially the exhaust 3a and 3b.

SO I just measured my valve lashed tonight and the results are quite scary. This is with a fresh rebuild with about 600 miles on it. Looks like the machin shop f@cked up. Here they are from piston 1-6 Exhaust: 1a..008 1b..011 2a..016 2b..015 3a..018 3b..018 4a..017 4b..016 5a..014...

That is a possible leak. Without assuming, venting in the aptmosphere is not a proper way of running with karmen vortex maf. Reroute it back into the intake for proper readings. As for ISCV.. its Idle Speed Control Valve, right on the front side of the intake manifold... Close to the Fuel...

You are still not getting the point about consequences. Without any hard data about how well your car is running you are assuming all is well when it's not. Running the Lex/550 does compensate each other and pushes fuel cut up, but fuel cut was there for a reason. You have to remember also...

Thanks guys. Yea MOTUL is $24.00 per quart. Hate to take it out.