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New bosch unit? Bosch is crap. Chance of getting one that works properly is very very low.

Get some gasoline. 87 unleaded, mask, gloves, Nylon brush kit, a bucket. Freak 3 gallons of gas lasted me two weeks and did all my parts. At 2.30 a gallon it was well worth it and did its job.

Felpro is alright as long as it has the silicone o ring for the coolant line. OEM is the way too go like Ian stated. I'd use copper spray as an added security. PS: Stone is good also AJUSA.

Isn't this signs of a bad ECM?

The questions here is HAS all parts indicated TESTED according to TSRM and within specs? It's one thing to say its good and another as to actually TESTING the parts. I think Poodles has already stated the most informative answers. Lewis15498 is right.

Sorry meant to say Heat the Heater core prior to soldering.

Sure timing didn't jump? Does the car feel really really weak?

Check the ground on the intake manifold (make sure connection is clean and tight). Seems as if you are skipping something. Check timing and a BOV doesn't have to be recirculated unless its stuck open at idle ( should not effect partial throttle all the way to 5k rpm). Check codes as stated...

WOW. Doesn't sound good. LOL. Looks like I'm having fitment issue on the pipes that connect to the heater core ( ones with o rings). Guess I'm going to have to solder? My only concern is do I heater the core location too and will that break off its original solders?

Thanks gapoon for your reply. It was just a thought as why the heater core went out. Being 20+years there is no argument besides that kicking and scream from the dash removal.

Thanks zum. I have already got the heater core. I will try to doing the flush kit asap.

I'm in this boat right now. My rebuild consisted of a block and head got shaved (machine didn't supply info about HOW MUCH TAKEN OFF). On top of that I'm running the 1.4 cometic MHG. After some careful readings I find out that the Probe .040 pistons have a 8.6:1 compression. I'm still unable...

Thanks Ian. I will check prior. I know that being the factory unit it has some corrosion and rust build up. I will just be more at ease If a new one took its place. My next concern is will it be fine to run the heater core with coolant all the time? I got rid of the heater valve and...

I had to drop my steering column. Force Torque has indicated everything needed.

GREAT BUY. THAT supra is badass. I bet it was well worth it. Kinda how my brother is such a Honda fan (he owns a NSX) after seeing my supra run.... he went out and bought a pristine condition 85 Supra all black. 53k original miles:aigo:. Some things are just well worth it.

WOW.. sounds like a pain. I will be ordering a new arm and oring + clips from Toyota. For what its worth... I'm gonna try an Spectre heater core out. Lifetime warranty.

I was waiting for the CLIMAX... when people get run over and killed. Its no wonder they are 4th world countries.

Hey guys... well My heater core went out tonight. Things that ensured this, coolant smell inside and haze on windows. I want to ask if anyone have used any aftermarket heater cores with good outcome? Ones like from Autozone, pepboys, kragen, napa. I would get it from the dealer, but on these...

Hows the charging system? Whats the voltage at FP rely and FP? Are all Grounds connected... especially the one under the Intake Manni. Hows the Cold start injector? I would also redo the boost leak test and test the AFM too via TSRM specs.

I vote SWAIN coatings and polishing manufactures cast flaws ( roughness). Last I heard 7M heads are GREAT and that 1grand could be spent on something else.