Heater core selection?

[Hmong_1G]

Hey guys... well My heater core went out tonight. Things that ensured this, coolant smell inside and haze on windows. I want to ask if anyone have used any aftermarket heater cores with good outcome? Ones like from Autozone, pepboys, kragen, napa. I would get it from the dealer, but on these current financial situations I cant. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[thedave925]

I got a napa heater core for $90 when i learned of the dealer's outrageous price here.

-You don't get the arms that protrude into the e-bay through the firewall.
-You don't get new o-rings for the arms where they mate into the cores.
-You don't get new stainless clips to hold the arms in place.
-Where the clips secure aftermarket core's flange to the arms flanges, core's flange is too thick for the clips and needs attention. They may also be out of square.

So disassemble carefully and inspect away before putting things together.
Don't forget to replace the o-rings, something of the green neoprene metric size, like for a/c system overhaul, would be nice.

I found getting the arms in securely a hassle.
I'm going to solder in the arms to the core in mine when i get the chance; mine don't leak enough but to make the haze visible after weeks to worry about, still irritates me.

HTH,
-Dave

 

[Hmong_1G]

I got a napa heater core for $90 when i learned of the dealer's outrageous price here.

-You don't get the arms that protrude into the e-bay through the firewall.
-You don't get new o-rings for the arms where they mate into the cores.
-You don't get new stainless clips to hold the arms in place.
-Where the clips secure aftermarket core's flange to the arms flanges, core's flange is too thick for the clips and needs attention. They may also be out of square.

So disassemble carefully and inspect away before putting things together.
Don't forget to replace the o-rings, something of the green neoprene metric size, like for a/c system overhaul, would be nice.

I found getting the arms in securely a hassle.
I'm going to solder in the arms to the core in mine when i get the chance; mine don't leak enough but to make the haze visible after weeks to worry about, still irritates me.

HTH,
-Dave

WOW.. sounds like a pain. I will be ordering a new arm and oring + clips from Toyota. For what its worth... I'm gonna try an Spectre heater core out. Lifetime warranty.

 

[IJ.]

Check the old core before binning it, often the actual core is fine and it's leaking at the V seam in the tank and it's an easy fix for a rad shop, mine was like $20 to repair.

 

[Hmong_1G]

Check the old core before binning it, often the actual core is fine and it's leaking at the V seam in the tank and it's an easy fix for a rad shop, mine was like $20 to repair.

Thanks Ian. I will check prior. I know that being the factory unit it has some corrosion and rust build up. I will just be more at ease If a new one took its place.

My next concern is will it be fine to run the heater core with coolant all the time? I got rid of the heater valve and running straight for the Head to the core and back into the system. I was wondering if the effect of continuous pressure and under heavy loads could cause the heater core seams to leak.

 

[gaboonviper85]

Load has nothing to do with coolant system pressure...there is no down side to running water full blast all the time other than it will always be hot behind the dash! The valve in the engine bay that you bypassed doesn't completely close so water is still always running threw the core and there for pressure will always be equal threw the whole system....your rad cap should hold only 13 ish psi therefor your whole cooling system+heater core will be under 13 psi of pressure reguardless of power,rpm, and load.

 

[Zumtizzle]

Thanks Ian. I will check prior. I know that being the factory unit it has some corrosion and rust build up. I will just be more at ease If a new one took its place.

My next concern is will it be fine to run the heater core with coolant all the time? I got rid of the heater valve and running straight for the Head to the core and back into the system. I was wondering if the effect of continuous pressure and under heavy loads could cause the heater core seams to leak.

Another Issue is. I don't know a Rad Shop I'd trust in Sacramento Anymore. (Avoid the one in West Sacramento)

But a new unit from PepBoys from checking online is 47 bucks. Sign up for rewards and use this coupon.

http://www.pepboys.com/sale_specials/coupons/10_off_merchandise_purchase_of_50_or_more/

Your method of Bypassing the Heater Valve (while something i wouldn't do, personally) is Ideal for heater core life; as the fluid is always moving!

As for coolant itself. Flush the hell out of the system (with a chemical flush or http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1013728&postcount=52). And use G-05 and Distilled when you're doing the final fill with an Exact 50:50 Mix (Normal Tap Water is fine during the flush.) G-05 Coolant better than green and red coolants and cheaper cost wise than toyota red; you can get it at Kragen or PepBoys. Also, look into adding a coolant filter as well when you have extra money.


Heres a Pic of G05

Also Thanks to my Bud Lance (Rajuns) Heres Another Tip: Buy this or the Help 47152 5/8's Valve (shown below.) and install it inline at the hose coming off the head and fill your coolant from there with the motor running and the heater on and you'll never have air in your system! And it costs less than 4 dollars!

Heres a pic of the 47152

 

[Hmong_1G]

Another Issue is. I don't know a Rad Shop I'd trust in Sacramento Anymore. (Avoid the one in West Sacramento)

But a new unit from PepBoys from checking online is 47 bucks. Sign up for rewards and use this coupon.

http://www.pepboys.com/sale_specials/coupons/10_off_merchandise_purchase_of_50_or_more/

Your method of Bypassing the Heater Valve (while something i wouldn't do, personally) is Ideal for heater core life; as the fluid is always moving!

As for coolant itself. Flush the hell out of the system (with a chemical flush or

). And use G-05 and Distilled when you're doing the final fill with an Exact 50:50 Mix (Normal Tap Water is fine during the flush.) G-05 Coolant better than green and red coolants and cheaper cost wise than toyota red; you can get it at Kragen or PepBoys. Also, look into adding a coolant filter as well when you have extra money.


Heres a Pic of G05

Also Thanks to my Bud Lance (Rajuns) Heres Another Tip: Buy this or the Help 47152 5/8's Valve (shown below.) and install it inline at the hose coming off the head and fill your coolant from there with the motor running and the heater on and you'll never have air in your system! And it costs less than 4 dollars!

Heres a pic of the 47152

Thanks zum. I have already got the heater core. I will try to doing the flush kit asap.

 

[Hmong_1G]

Load has nothing to do with coolant system pressure...there is no down side to running water full blast all the time other than it will always be hot behind the dash! The valve in the engine bay that you bypassed doesn't completely close so water is still always running threw the core and there for pressure will always be equal threw the whole system....your rad cap should hold only 13 ish psi therefor your whole cooling system+heater core will be under 13 psi of pressure reguardless of power,rpm, and load.

Thanks gapoon for your reply. It was just a thought as why the heater core went out. Being 20+years there is no argument besides that kicking and scream from the dash removal.

 

[IJ.]

Also Thanks to my Bud Lance (Rajuns) Heres Another Tip: Buy this or the Help 47152 5/8's Valve (shown below.) and install it inline at the hose coming off the head and fill your coolant from there with the motor running and the heater on and you'll never have air in your system! And it costs less than 4 dollars!

Heres a pic of the 47152

1 please

 

[Mk3runner]

Sumeet, they sell at harbor freight for a buck. I'm going to do this when I go to flush the system once I'm back driving it.

 

[dumbo]

Also Thanks to my Bud Lance (Rajuns) Heres Another Tip: Buy this or the Help 47152 5/8's Valve (shown below.) and install it inline at the hose coming off the head and fill your coolant from there with the motor running and the heater on and you'll never have air in your system! And it costs less than 4 dollars!

Heres a pic of the 47152

I had one of these in my system:3d_frown:
Came out of parking lot with some decent revs and the damn thing broke, if it didn't spray coolant out of the hood, might not of notice in time:aigo: Guess it just couldn't take the heat over time, not sure how long it was on there, PO put it on...find a metal one.

 

[grimreaper]

^ ditto, had one for 2 days before the underhood temps in that area warped the cap flange... SCARY!

 

[Hmong_1G]

WOW. Doesn't sound good. LOL. Looks like I'm having fitment issue on the pipes that connect to the heater core ( ones with o rings). Guess I'm going to have to solder? My only concern is do I heater the core location too and will that break off its original solders?

 

[thedave925]

WOW. Doesn't sound good. LOL. Looks like I'm having fitment issue on the pipes that connect to the heater core ( ones with o rings). Guess I'm going to have to solder? My only concern is do I heater the core location too ??? and will that break off its original solders?

^ Can you re-word that? Seems thats its missing 'do the' after the 'I' but still doesn't make sense to me.

Take the heater core and tubes out from behind the dash to work on it.
Remove the o-rings and clips.
Remove all moisture possible prior to heating.
Prep the tubes by lightly sanding off oxidation and applying flux.
Fit and clock the tubes the appropriate direction.
Heat the tubes (not the solder or seam) and melt the solder into the seam with the heat of the pipe.
Ensure that you didn't make the solder run with too much heat, no gaps allowed.
Let cool before disturbing.
Wipe off excess flux with a rag.

If there are gaps, perform a local solder by applying flux at the gap to fill it and use light heat on the tube location of the gap. Hold the solder at the gap until the heat of the pipe takes it in and remove heat immediately.
Let cool then wipe.

Install

Do not use too much heat and don't concentrate it too much near the core or that'll have to be re-done.

Obviously this will be hot, there is open flame, and the hot solder/flux will drip.
Do much thinking ahead before starting, to make the job easier.

-Dave

EDIT:

NOOO!! Avoid directly heating the core at all costs or this will get out of hand

 

[Hmong_1G]

^ Can you re-word that? Seems thats its missing 'do the' after the 'I' but still doesn't make sense to me.

Take the heater core and tubes out from behind the dash to work on it.
Remove the o-rings and clips.
Remove all moisture possible prior to heating.
Prep the tubes by lightly sanding off oxidation and applying flux.
Fit and clock the tubes the appropriate direction.
Heat the tubes (not the solder or seam) and melt the solder into the seam with the heat of the pipe.
Ensure that you didn't make the solder run with too much heat, no gaps allowed.
Let cool before disturbing.
Wipe off excess flux with a rag.

If there are gaps, perform a local solder by applying flux at the gap to fill it and use light heat on the tube location of the gap. Hold the solder at the gap until the heat of the pipe takes it in and remove heat immediately.
Let cool then wipe.

Install

Do not use too much heat and don't concentrate it too much near the core or that'll have to be re-done.

Obviously this will be hot, there is open flame, and the hot solder/flux will drip.
Do much thinking ahead before starting, to make the job easier.

-Dave

EDIT:

NOOO!! Avoid directly heating the core at all costs or this will get out of hand

Sorry meant to say Heat the Heater core prior to soldering.