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I noticed the same thing on a couple setups I've worked on. I've found that by using a needle to push the receptacles together making for a firmer union the symptoms are reduced greatly... if they don't completely disappear. If this is the cause of your issue, once you're done tuning if the pins...

First things that come to my mind are: Neutral Start Switch, FC switch in the VAF (is the VAF connected? or are you just testing this in the garage?) and the Circuit Opening Relay. Double check in the TEWD, I'm pretty sure all three can cause what you're experiencing. Good luck!

Removal of the cold start??? The injector? What the hell purpose is that supposed to serve? Damn, I'd ask where you're finding this stuff, but the unfortunately the net's full of this kind of garbage. I'll save you a LOT of time and make it real simple: there's no *cheap* power to be had from...

Let's not... please just put the dust back on the bottle and carefully put it back where you found it. There are no gains to be found here other than running richer (which you don't want) and a timing bump (which you can be done other ways). And before you ask, leave the VAF alone too.

If there's no resistor pack in either vehicle I'd be inclined to believe they're the same impedance. Grab a meter and test a few of each. If the impedances do not match, that's another thing. You can install high impedance injectors in a vehicle which had low impedance injectors and a resistor...

I'm not sure what Razoe's referring to. I posted pics and wire colors in another thread for someone who needed to do what you're wanting to do and everything seemed fine. It was quite a while ago, so you're going to have to search a bit. ciao!

Care to elaborate on the differences in internals? A few people on here and elsewhere claim to have adapted the wiring to accept a dizzy of a different vintage, as the case may be. Just given what I recall I can't imagine anything that was changed enough to prevent swapping... the 86.5 could be...

I was in the neighborhood and thought I might mention (if you don't know already) that the MAFT Pro is not a wideband controller; a gauge by itself won't do you any good and the MAFT Pro will not display the AFR without a wideband controller such as the LC-1.

Here a some diagrams of an older design(not mine) which was rather popular. I made a couple using comparators too. It is a simple project and a dot/bar generator like the 3904 fits in quite well.

Check for codes first. It's a complete waste of time and money to just guess what the problem is. Start with replacing the 7.5A gauge fuse, then test pin "W" from the ECU to the check engine lamp's socket and test for 12v on the other side of the socket with the ignition in the ON position...

Aus has got it right, two sheets of cheap galvanized sheet metal with a 1" gap between filled with f/g. Remember not to pack it in there tightly too. If you could manage it, two plates with a complete vacuum between them would work the best. ;)

Ok, I didn't see what you were talking about with regard to the injector pinout, the TEWD corresponds with 92's diagram and legend:http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46 So, the mirroring thing aside, it looks like one of those publications is in error...

You're not taking into account that his layout is looking INTO THE PLUGS, not the TCCS... it's mirrored from the chart you're looking at. ;) And I did just go over a number of the pins and verified them. His info is sound, please remove your post.

Pre89 do not have grey plugs. Here's the '89 TEWD he pulled the data from with diagrams of the plugs. If you flip though you may verify all the connections. The couple I glanced at appear just fine. After you verify it remove your former post if 92nsx's pdf is correct.

Is it dieing just when the engine's warm or is it dieing when the engine bay is warm? I had a VAF (look it up ;) ) fail which would kill the Vf signal once the circuit got warmed up. Didn't manage to find it until I tested with a hairdryer to heat up the various parts. You getting any error...

You can do the mod yourself (as long as you're not squeemish when it comes to modifying a circuit and soldering). The info's been posted here by DrJonez and a couple others a few times, you should be able to find it if you dig a little... there are even pictures! ;)

LOL <bowing gracefully>, Merely passing through... Cleaning out the mailbox and the occasional peek over everyone's heads to see where the burning smell and the sparks are coming from... But, no... I am not back. An email from another member had a request for some help... So we've been busy...

Oil return needs to be drilled out on the GE block, other than that swap everything else over from the GTE, including the T-stat neck. ciao

Oh, I'm just passing through... It's always nice to see you around too. You have my number too; feel free to use it more often. ;)