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interesting...wonder how much more they push it back this would in turn mean if your running stock twins you would possibly have to beat the bulkhead back further and i run the DM brackets and mounts and it fits pretty good to me i think if i went back any further i would hit my cylinder head or...

anyone have any expirence with these OCC. they seem to be good quality for the price. For starters its baffled, also instead of a sight glass it includes a dipstick, and comes with two 15mm and two 9mm fittings depending on size you need. I figured it would be great for my stock 2jzgte swap...

sorry if this is a stupid question but how would I make one to bolt between the y-pipe and downpipe. I would have been easier at the end of the down pipe because of the 2 bolt flange but the beginning of the downpipe is a bit odd-shaped. if I was gonna make one I was just going to fabricate a...

which would be better placement, at the beginning of the downpipe or at the end? also what diameter must it be

Ive read that stock jdm non-vvti twins boost creep with no cat exhaust due to the lack of backpressure. how true is this, cause I was planning on going with the driftmotion aristo stock twin downpipe with a 3in exhaust the whole way. if they do would fitting a cat at the end of the DM downpipe...

cool. found the chart also that shows the voltage with the pressure changes so I know its right just never tested a boosted factory map sensor. thanks though

have a swapped aristo 2jzgte nonvvti that cranks no start. have ignition pulse and injector pulse. checked resistance of crank and both cam sensors. found my map sensor had the rubber stuff torn on the bottom and didnt hold vacuum, so i ordered a used one. checked the connector for the 5V...

you ran battery power to F59 pin#17?

I just did. that's where I got the pin #'s from. F59 pin#17 is the indicator for the drive gear to the computer, according to wilbo

so I assume you grounded B2 pin #13, F59 pin # 26, and F59 pin#2 to a good ground. my next guess would be prolly power F59 17 which is D maybe it will tell you your in drive and work. also have some theorys with pin bf2 pin2 and bf3 pin3

if its anything like the 2jzgte non vvti the you would ground the NSW and STA wires. Others have had this problem and doing this usually solves it for them. Look at Wilbo666 for your ecu pinout to find out which wires these are for your vvti

going over it again. I was thinking of connecting the NSW & STA wires to B1 pin #5, which is the + for the circuit opening relay. so they would be grounded when the key is in the ON position and have power going to them in the CRANK postion to get the motor started easier. Do the NSW & STA wires...

exactly what I was thinking for the starter B1 pin10 to F1. now ive been frying my brain and double checking all the wiring now and ive got a few bugs I cant seem to figured out. 1.) in my post #12 ,talking about the pin 76 and 77 (the NSW &STA wires) im just going to delete them from their...

was that a yes to my starter wire question or to the stagger solder points?? yea i staggered mine too but still got about 40 wires to go. im going with off the shelf wire instead of another ecu plug. and i think i used your wire map too. heres my layout. also for the body plugs would the same...

used this on my stock aristo twins. its for a diesel oil drain but works perfect, plus its oil resistant. bought only 1ft and it was good enough, but you have to cut it just right to have enough for both sides. have pics if you want just let me know...

im in the process of extending my harness and am a bit confused on how to wire my starter. where im at right now is I have it wired on my wiring map that I drew out for B1 pin#10 to wire into body plug F pin#1 and that's all it would need to crank correct? well at least that's the way it looks...

if I do ill just get some better wire. did you stagger the solders when it was too thick? is there any special details to watch for with shielded wires? maybe cut far up where they are unshielded?

now im thinking of just extending my harness...was it a lot easier going that route, besides soldering the harness? I can solder and have no problem doin that its just is it better going that route instead? plus the wireing also. the one I got at orielly the last time didn't have as much copper...

so did you extened your harness? the problem I see now is the abs lines are in the way. there is a small gap inbetween two lines right above the throttle pedal but only maybe for about a 1.5" hole did you come across this? also how did you guys route the alternator wiring and battery wire to...

20" seems kinda excessive doesnt it? i was planning on going this route look at post 18 how gurley does it with a 2in hole from post 3: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?141394-Routing-Aristo-2jz-harness/page2 it seems to reach pretty good under the dash and to the glove box...