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Titan = Cometic doesn't it? (I have a 2.0 in my current motor and a 3.0 waiting for the new build)

The cable has a bend in it like it's supporting weight.....

Check the basics first Check for spark (Grab a spare plug pull a lead put the plug in and ground the body of the plug, I use a jumper cable then crank it and watch for a zap)

I'm using a Malpassi as it's low key and antibling! It's tapped for 1/8 Npt so AN fittings shouldn't be too hard to find if that's the way you want to go.

You run the risk of holding a valve off it's seat if you do that! If it's an exhaust Valve you get a nice blow torch effect that destroys the valve if it's an intake it runs like total arse and backfires and POPS a lot... 5 thou extra lift isn't going to make any difference.

TS: I had a small revenge on Sharks last night! (Had Flake for dinner) ;)

If you have a "spare" head what are the cams like in it? If the Cam is ok replace the one with the broken bolt then you'll have a bunch of shims to choose from (24 from the old head and another 12 from the dead cam side) Hopefully you'll get 12 with good clearances. It's a slow fiddly job...

Anyone that spends $1 on a head without having it checked for hardness is deluding themselves as once it's soft it's never going to be reliable. The "Test" takes 30 seconds and most shops will do it free of charge if you ask nicely! Great post Habu!

Gotta agree with Grim on Mountain Biking! Very low impact so you're not destroying joints (unless you crash your brains out) and gives a good all over workout! I used to ride minimum 300 Km's a week (25 km each night then 100 km per day on the weekends on top of 120 minutes on a stationary...

Way back when I had my 240z Datsun I mounted mine on the trans tunnel between the seats. The Shiny Silver knob is the brake balance and the Boost controller is a black knob closer to the drivers seat. I plumbed it all with hardlines as the guys have already mentioned Rubber is bad for this...

I think he means the Big bolt that holds the Cam Pully on. There are a bunch of ways to have it removed but most of them aren't cheap and would probably cost more than another 2nd hand cam. (EDM springs to mind)

Cool! (always learning :) )

Another horrible thing I've seen some Dyno operators do is do a pull then shut the motor off right away.......

my "guess" is the BoV would eventually sieze up from contaminants in the Exhaust Gases. Unless you run an open exhaust there's always going to be some back pressure and when the BoV is shut the Pipe between it and the DP is going to fill up.

Quick question would be: Do you know how much is already off the head? (quite a few 7M's have been skimmed before)

Shark! Totally on topic here, my sister just e-mailed me a discovery channel thing where a guy get bitten by a Shark in shallow water! He seems surprised that there's a huge chunk of his leg missing!

LOL just stopped for lunch ;)! Anything other than 1:1 will give a different reading that you need to factor in.

99.9% of 5 speeds 4th is 1:1 Only exception I can think of off the top of my head were early 180B SSS they had a 1:1 5th gear. (and I was taught dyno pulls were done in the 1:1 gear to cancel out any torque multiplication/division from the trans)

Vlad: I don't understand the need to reroute anything if you're installing it in the lower hose? Wouldn't it just circulate everything as stock? The Turbo will thermo siphon after the motor is shut down.

3) "Gee why do the Cops keep hassling me and defecting my car"! They're just bastards and should be catching crooks! ....... :rolleyes: