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True. OIL has an 'L' on the end ON is spelled with an 'N', not 'M' In the word "there's"- notice the extra 'e', and the apostrophe "When" has an 'h', and so does "what". As for your oil trouble, the factory valve cover bolts tend to lose tension. Re-tighten them. Sorry for the rant, but I...

Wow- never heard a bad comment about Battleground. Say Giter- I haven't heard a word from Tubbie in forever. Is he still into Supras? When's the last time you spoke with him? I tried calling him last month, no response.

dragging brakes? Bad(really bad) alignment?

I don't really see why turbo size would affect mileage so much. I presume that The TCCS is simply trying to keep a set stoichiometry during closed loop cruise. How are you controlling fuel? Do you have an SAFC? AFPR? Lexus AFM?

You can get them from a number of places- This is the cheapest place I've found: http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/valve-clearance-discs-25mm.html

It'll work.

When I get on moderate throttle, I sometimes smell oil too. I think I have a slight leak from the oil feed on my turbo, and it's hitting my DP. But not sure. Going to tear into it when I get home.

I'm a bit ignorant on this, but is it possible that any wire off the CPS causing a short to another, would cause a misstep in the TDC signal to the igniter? Might that possibly cause occasional stumbling as well as a code 14? Again, I'm spitballing, and hope none of the more adept(JJ, IJ)...

Well, that's what I'm saying- it's advertised as not fuel-rated. It is pressure rated to 250psi, but of course that's not the concern. It Jeg's brand, though i'm sure another manufacturer made it. I assume since you say yours is fuel rated- it must be from Aeroquip, or another brand.

hmm. Not a good sound to have after getting low on oil. Reading threads like this has made me paranoid, and I now check my oil level every single morning. Are you sure it was white smoke, and not blueish white? Regardless, the telltale sign of rodknock for me was a rattling under part throttle...

so...should I be worried about the degradation of the internal material? How long have you been on pushloc for fuel, IJ? Have you ever been in a position to inspect the inner lining after use?

Umm....What kind of vibrations are you getting between shits? :momaru: What kind of toilet are you chillin on? As for the metallic/oil smell...what have you been eating? :rofl: Ok- as for the vibration between shiFts, I might guess either an issue with the flexplate/ bolts, or the...

Hey guys- I had been using a -6an stainless line for my AFPR to fuel rail, but I was concerned about the danger of shorting against the alternator, so about 4 months ago I replaced the line with Jeg's -6 pushloc. I've had no problems whatsoever, but i was just on Jeg's site, looking at more...

Resistor change was easy- took literally 5 minutes to do.

$8 at Autozone, etc.

I have this same problem with my Walbro. within 10 seconds of shutting down, my FPR gauge drops to zero psi in the line. I have to kick the starter for a split second to get the pump to run, then I can start it. I was thinking I was the only one.

Nice man.

ok then.

I think at a minimum(if it's not done already- you need to remove the cams so that all valves seat. As for the block- like poodles said, those coolant passages look terrible. I honestly don't even know if you can take enough material off to re-establish the normal boundaries of the passages...

So does power come in at around the same rpm with the T61, as it did with the 57 trim? My power goals really aren't past 400hp, and Id rather get power at lower rpm, if one spools faster than the other.