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Lol. I'm looking for the same info, as I'm wiring in a universal today myself. Question is- WHICH is the signal wire. I'll post in here myself if I find it. ---------- Post added at 11:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ---------- Looks like CyFi6 answered it in a different post-...

That's not a roach. It's more in the june bug category.

Yeah, Varsity is a bit sketchy. a LOT of different imports which is cool, but it always seems on the verge of being shut down. Last time I was there, a guy was doing burnouts IN the lot, and the cops came. Dumb.

Semi-forged?

I don't see a SILV happening anytime soon, but supras go to any local meets?

Yeah, I think the Friday thing was the main issue. Problem of course is, that the track's open night is on Fridays. But mayb e next time, we can set up something with a different venue. OR, is there another drag track on the south side of town? And on the subject of meets, is there simply a...

The 7M stamp is visible in at least two of those pics.

NO. They bore out the factory inlet. On the INSIDE. The intake fits on the outside, not the inside. The outer diameter is stock. Just put the accordian hose back on.

The input and output diameters? stock. How large is the impellor? 57mm. The ONLY difference between a 57 trim and stock is that they bored out the interior of the comp. housing and used a larger impellor. Sell the stainless manifold. You don't need it. Bolt the 57 on, and bolt the downpipe to...

Check your fuses first.

I predict that it'll last at least during idle.

I left my na diff in for about a year or so, and thought it was great. Boost built fine. I only switched to get lower cruising rpms(4.1NA>3.9LSD)

I would expect that to go 800 HP, you'd need a full mandrel tubular manifold. I would think you could get at least 600hp outta the cast unit, though.

Most people just put in an aftermarket gauge, since the stock gauge is so slow to react, and only goes to 8psi? In fact most turbo guys get rid of the boost gauge and put in a volt meter. ps- nice detective work, though.

Have you done the igniter mod? Not sure if it'll cure the miss, but some folks have reported good results. I have a slight miss at idle, like one cylinder takes a break every 3 seconds for one event, but it's not enought to concern me, and it doesn't afftect cruise or performance, just at idle.

10.0 doesn't seem lean under wot.

Well, when YOU dry out, make sure sure your plug valley is dried out. And spray a little starting fluid or carb cleaner in isolated parts of the engine, to see if there's a vacuum leak. popular spots for this are- the throttle body gasket, and the lower intake manifold gasket.

clutchnet.com, has two levels of upgraded pressure plates for our cars.

Make me some drop-in PCB's, and I'll do the soldering. I know where I could get you a sweet 89+ converted climate control... : )

You know- you could have just bought one of mine like a month ago. But I digress... The green screen requires that you remove the front black 'panel' that says TEMP on it. Look through the back of the faceplate, and you'll see a small round hole next to the green plastic. use a pencil's...