Justin: Perfect :)!
Intake Valve notches are usually bigger than Exhaust ones if the pistons aren't marked forward like yours!
I use a Castrol LMM grease it's a Moly product a bit like the ARP grease and anywhere there is metal to metal contact I give a smear!
It's really IMPORTANT...
Nash: Image shack is really easy it gives you a bunch of links to use depending on how you want the pic to display!
If you want a full size pic or a thumbnail just copyNpaste the link here and done!
I do my own thumbnails and it's a bit fiddly but doing it the Image Shack way is a breeze!
Greg: In these motors it's not critical as the Pauter rods are symetrical but in say a domestic V8 the rods have a larger Chamfer to clear the Crank journal fillet so it's important!
Justin: Correct! :)
(welcome to correct assembly you'd be amazed how many "pro built" motors I've seen that...
Nate: Not sure with the Eagle Rods but Pauter and most all stock rods I've seen have the notches on the same side.
In our motors looking from the front with the Deck up the notches are on the right side/intake side.
GTE Rods have a squirter hole down near the big end that sprays the thrust side of the bore.
My Pauter's didn't have this so it was important for me to get hold of a GTE Block....
The Rods do have a left and right side indicated by the Notches for the Bearing Tangs.
Back in the "day" If you didn't pop the WG at least once a week they would seize up due to the condensation and contaminants in there.
Usually they'd seize closed and you'd have wonderful power for hmmmm maybe 20 seconds if you didn't catch it!
From time to time the Valve shaft would seize...
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