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seems like it would be alot of work.

custom intake manifold price FTMFL........ if people are making 500 horsepower on a stock manifold im sure the 7m to 2j adapter would flow well enough. The whole point of the adapter is the benefits of easier/shorter IC piping and less cluttered engine bay while still bieng on a budget. im...

700 isnt that much but still above most budgets, thats a walbro, injectors and afpr to most people. if there was a way to have a front face intake manifold that could be all said and done for approx $300 it would sell like crazy. maybe its just me, function>form any day of the week

if duane uses it, its strong enough.

does it stall out from load? or shut off like you turned the key off? try revving it a little when putting it in drive, not much and make sure your not in front or behind anything in case the car jumps a little.

ha, semens :biglaugh:

:bsflag: everyone knows that 1j's are indestructable, now if you said 7m id believe it.......:runaway:

hmm front face intake manifold conversion for sub 300 bucks all said and done or CF engine cover.....:ugh2: you said you want to make something that the supra community could benefit from, i think making a substitute for a product that usually cost $6-700 that would only cost $300 would be...

come again? :1zhelp:

big boost leak and 8-9 psi equals fuel cut. i hit fuel cut at about 10 psi with some small boost leaks.

that could cause an erratic idle from air escaping, the clutch fan makes alot of turbulence under there as well.

i didnt mean drop it in, gently placing a screw driver would do just fine, you must have some very heavy screw drivers.... :D

sounds like a 1j with 2 cylinders cut off......:naughty: turbo rotary in a miata is what i want to do someday.

and ill buy the second one...

well if you retard it and it lessens/goes away its pre ignition via spark. if it doesnt go away then its not ignition related. only other way combustion could escape would be threw a valve thats open at the wrong time. maybe your damper timing marks are off. put a screw driver down #1 and...

^ nailed it, angle of the strut has no effect on camber as there are a upper and lower control arm that position the steering knuckle. The struts in the MK3 are only there for holding the car up and controlling suspension oscillations.

the idl and e2 are the idel switch, it should have continuity when the linkage is at idle position. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=103 judging by that, if you put a .90mm feeler gauge between the throttle stop and the throttle lever, the contacts will open...

try retarding the ignition timing. if it goes away then double check where its at.

gte or ge? vital piece of missing information.

as long as its smooth i cant see it bieng any worse then stock where it has to do a sharp 180 after entry. Production or BAN. :x: :D