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im guessing hes talking about after fixing it. flushing it with oil would get most of it out but there will still most likely be a little left over. A hot tank would be best.

Who cares, looks good either way, not hard with flat colors.

any dyno sheets from the people that have them?

Flat black looks sick, no paint job necessary.

prolly confusing and weird to get used to as well. best bet would be to buy a car already in the states thats been swapped, all the ease of registration, left hand drive, non cross country shipping, turn key car without the hassles of everything else.

Nice Taste in Music, I like all the Sick USDM parts! lol Now stop videotaping and get it done!

Somewhat true, besides the fact that depth of pockets would also regulate the quality of work, as long as were talking about snapon tools. If every tool i had was snapon, id have all my tools shiny and new and be too broke to afford anything to work on. i believe a set of metric ratchet non...

Oh i forgot something....../sarcasm

isnt this a torque wrench? Never seen them with settable torque numbers on them, just the little knob on the back. is that what you guys are talking about? :1zhelp: Im with poodles Snapon is a rip off. Who cares how good there warranty is, quality tools shouldn't break. my Mac's are holding...

it would be fun until you post it here and get jumped on by 90% of the forum that "doesn't condone unsafe driving" yet think its ok if the conditions are right, witch never seems to be the case in the eyes of said 90% of forum. :biglaugh: I dont get it, they make the same torque :1zhelp...

Redline is the red line on the tach, different from the point at witch you could break things from the crank turning to fast. Also different from when the TCCS cuts fuel until rpms drop. ive herd of rev limit, witch is when the TCCS turns the engine off, being 6500, 6750 or anywhere between...

untill you go speed density....:biglaugh:

My Auto redlines at 6500.... pretty sure there isnt a 7000rpm redline 7M supra out there, besides maybe a Group A or Turbo A or whatever. When i floor mine with PWR button on, it will shift into second at about roughly 6200.

Me having my New York State inspection license and 4 years in the business.

i wouldnt mind a OBD 2 car, fool computer to think everythings good (witch is simple) with no CEL and when inspection time comes around you got nothing to worry about and only takes about 5 minutes. I hate running the dyno, its always a guessing game if ill get it to pass, too many things to...

witch driveside one? there are 4 bolts, two on driver side, 2 on passenger side.

BWAAAHAAAAAAA @ OneJoeZee's comment

Like i said, i dont have the time or resources or i would, bottom line is its a basic piece for a CNC machine, its not like its one of those engine blocks or turbine impellers in the 5 axis CNC videos that probably took weeks or months of programming. Im not complaing of the price bieng high, it...

sounds like classic boost leak, im sure that massive boost spike from the wastegate hose bieng off didnt help any of the IC couplers.

though his(rons) manifolds are perfect works of art, this is a thick flange with holes in it. theres no comparason of rons manifolds to this adapter. and as Adam posted in his thread about this, the piece of aluminum cost him 50 bucks, and it had enough to make 2 adapters. so material cost...