Kurt is correct the sway bars are very important in a Mk3 as it's a big heavy pig and the stock bars are hollow and not heavy enough in the wall to control roll!
Depends on each block due to Core shift some will go big and others won't.
My brand new Late model block has a LOT of shift compared to my old 86.5 one!
Boso: Toyota and most car makers went light duty switch gear,thin wire and relays many years ago so the days of wiring a load to a switch are long gone unless you use aftermarket switch gear and heavy wire!
Boso: Relays are your friend run them on EVERYTHING as none of the Toyota switch gear can handle current.
Lagged: Nah I'd rather help him succeed with this project as it'll make a fun car! ;)
DS Joints
Pull the E brake on hard then put the car in neutral and see if there's any rotarional play then check for up/down and side to side play.
Also check the bushing in the extension hosing and make sure it's not shagged (try to move the slip yoke up and down)
Upgraded Solid Sway bars made the biggest difference in my cars handling and left it compliant enough to be drivable.
Stiff springs and shocks leave a lot to be desired in a DD on public roads.
(having said this I upgraded to ext adjustable Koni Coilovers)
Yep cable and a D Ring down at the floor so it's pulling against the concrete!
My Drive has a fairly steep slope and getting the fat one in after washing the dust and crap off from sitting in the shop used to mean using the overhead chain hoist and risking pulling the shed down on top of me...
Boso: You could always section that part of the tunnel fold it back down and move it back an inch or so that way it'll look stock/much better!
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