Dow: I replaced a brand new stocker (4000KM's) with an ATI for this build dunno what shipping would cost though.
I WOULDN'T run an old stocker at 7000!
Dow: Pull a shell out of a box they're stamped on the backside.
Genuine P's are great and have the egg shaped bore to create an oil wedge in the unloaded part of rotation! (being a broached shell they're a bit all over the shop sizewise but a good machinist will allow for this)
Again just from what I've read the 2000's are a bit ordinary and I think it was the L19's were an upgrade?
There was a big thread on them on SF awhile back.
I'd do the upgrade just for the peace of mind as I stated earlier you can't cut corners if it's going to live at 7000+ (I've pulled...
Eagles Good bolts and lightened crank would be nice!
I knocked a bit over 5 lbs out of mine for this build and it makes a huge difference in engine response off boost.
7M Niterided Lightened Crank
Never used them but from anything I've read if they're checked for sizing and have the better bolts fitted they're fine.
What's the price difference between those and quality rods ie: Pauters,Carrilo's,Crower's?
Dow: While you may get away with reworked stock rods if you're going to run the motor at 7k+ sustained (not just a blat through the gears time to time) I'd seriously look at good quality rods.
Correct the Wiseco's have skirt coatings but they shouldn't affect expansion at all.
Dow: With the Ross I knocked the specs down a thou but should have gone down 2 as they were a little rattly when cold.
I did this with the new JE's and it's quiet as a mouse when cold.
I run triple coatings and this reduces thermal expansion quite a lot!
They're NDC bearings in Clevite boxes so check around you may get them cheaper in NDC boxes..
Good quality Japanese bearings just NOT as good technology as Genuine Clevite 77's.
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