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Single biggest improvement will be losing the tubular stock bars and replacing them with quality aftermarket bars. Suspension settings make the next biggest difference followed by good shocks/springs. (this is assuming the stock shocks aren't totally shagged to begin with)

If it's on the Intake side it won't be magnetic but it also won't make it through the motor and out the exhaust. Intake/Compressor wheel is aluminium but both wheels might be rubbing so you might be getting steel dust at the exhaust pipe.

So I guess you need to be a Myspace member to view pics there or something?

Ditto ;) We all have a Supra or have seen pics of one before!

Build a full flow Cooler circuit with a T Stat your motor will thank you.

LMAO you tard :) (they're useless even if you have a Turbo)

Check to see if it's magnetic or not my "guess" if it is it's the turbine wheel rubbing on shutdown.

This has been covered many times before and it's just a personal peeve of mine with many people reporting no issues with using a 1 piece.... At certain shaft speeds above critical you get shaft whip as the Uni joints oscilate and not travel in circles, with low diff gears and high OD ratios...

ROFLMAO man that was piss funny ;) Bit of a hint just leave it the fuck alone and only turn it once ;)

You need a measurement from 1 to the Seal surface at 2 if you're making the mistake of going for a one piece DS. If you're being intelligent and going 2 piece you need from 1 to the CL of the centre bearing holes then from there to the seal surface at 2 ;)

Echo echo echo ;)

Buy a real one...

Depends if the nozzles have a particular spray pattern It may be symetrical so if the clips point straight down it'll be fine but if they're on their sides it won't.

Blue is the Pwr Steer to accordian Pink is a hardline and can be done with soft line Large fitting is booster small fitting is vacc to the vacc reservoir from memory

Pwr Steer Idle up Mickey.

While the motor is running you're using the Alternator and NOT the battery so if the drain is less than the Alt's capacity no reason it'll go flat.

You sunk my Battleship ;)

Go for it only "issue" I could see is not enough CCA but you can always bump start it if it won't crank when it's low.

Looking at the quality welding I'd disagree with that ;)

Had my entire Motor Gearbox, Diff, Brakes, Driveshaft and Hubs done ;) Only thing I'd be cautious about if doing it again is it stress relieves some parts and if they're thin (like shimless buckets) there will be a dimension change. The science is there for it and the guy that did mine...