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BF: Going forwards >>>>>> Moron in a roadworks machine does an iilegal U turn across a centre divider on the blind side of a crest I take evasive action car spins 180 and it was all over...... (didn't want to hit the machine it weighed 6 ton and had LOTS of sharp edges)

When I had my Koni Coilovers built they got the valving just about perfect I cranked them 1/4 turn to help out during high speed runs (150+mph) and haven't touched them since. If I do some track days on slicks I can wind some more damping in to stiffen roll and pitch.

Think "GoKart" no suspension as we know it and relies on chassis flex. I've tuned my car to how I like it including the stock flex if I stiffen it I'll have to start again and more than likely lose the compliance that makes it nice to drive long distances. It all comes down to the cars...

When you lift the throttle while driving your motor sucks ;)

The Datto had a fully seam welded shell as well so I doubt a Mk3 would be even close to as strong...

Backed it into a concrete power pole...

Keep in mind it's RHD here and I had a full 6 point steel cage welded in 14 points :(

^ Unless something takes the pump body out on the feed side :(

All supplies ;) My fuel system uses 3 x valves at the tank and another 3 at the engine bay so it was easier to plumb this way. 2 x 10mm would have done it but I figured I'd go overkill and never suffer another delivery issue meltdown. Last thing you want if you suffer a highspeed...

The lines I use aren't conventional Ricer Braided ;) Think Power steering hi pressure line.

"easily"?? :aigo:

Mechanical

I figure in a big accident the steel reinforced softlines have a much better chance of not rupturing ;) (I've had one such accident and the end results weren't pretty)

I think my bender was around the $100 aud mark and the flare tool less. I run 3 x 10mm high pressure softlines all the way from the tank (400psi line pressure) then use the hardlines in the engine bay as they're more compact. Not a big fan of hardlines that aren't shielded in some way in...

For that sort of thing I use "Bundy Tube" it's a Copper coated Steel line but you need a good quality bender and flaring tool to get good results. (This is what I did my fuel system water and fuel lines with)

Double flared and supported by P Clamps every foot yeah should be ok.

^ Unless it's a narrow Falken ;)

Yeah like I said Black :)

Depends on the Tire brand as well I run 265/35/18 and 285/35/18 Falken 452/451's here on 9" rims.

The 1jz may not have enough torque to turn the 7M 10 blade ;)