Might work well if you could cap off the waterpump outlet and divert it to in between #3 and #4 low on the block (Right where the Turbo sits of course)
Doing this would more or less equalise the temps but you'd need a central outlet on the head as well for it to work.
Glad I'm not mistaken on this :)
(when you actually sit down and think it though it just doesn't do anything, I can't even see how it could affect the Heater circuit)
Our suspension is progressive by nature being double A Arm.
If you run progressive wound springs you just blow through the light section of the spring with minimal effort.
There's only a single hole being drilled for #6 right at the back the 2 ports on either side of #6 are already open.
Sorry I just can't see how drilling that hole will be of any benefit at all.
If someone can provide solid proof/evidence ie: 6 x egt probes or even a run on a dyno shooting...
The holes work as pairs.
hole 1 in Cam and pully = x
hole 2 in cam and pully = xx
hole 3 in cam and pully = xxx
I have NFI what turning the Pully onto hole 1 pully and hole 2 cam yields.
Ron: Sounds snappy!
Congrats on getting it running :)
What is the dash layout starting Left top to right please?
(just trying to figure out what I'm seeing)
Boy does someone have it WRONG above.......
There are 3 holes in eac cam and 3 in each stock pully.
pin in the middle holes is 0
pin in the left holes is x degrees one way
pin in right holes is x degrees the other.
(hint the holes are offset so the timing mark on the pully stays...
It doesn't really make sense if you look at the coolant flow paths
Rad>water pump> block> Up to Head> back to the Rad top hose.
If you bypass from the Rear of the head you're reducing flow at the front of the head?
Dave: Ya gotta remember this was back in the dark ages I didn't have any of this new fangled gear GET OFF MY LAWN DAMN KIDS!! ;)
Lance: It's a pet peeve of mine :D
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