Come on guys he wants his pretty lights working so if you don't know which wire please don't post ;)
(bit of a hint it's the one with 1>1.5v coming out of the 02 sensor)
It "shouldn't" drop/sag that much on cranking.
From memory I see a 1v drop on a charged battery.
Forgot to mention you want to take 3 readings
1: Battery voltage at the battery.
2: Voltage between the block and Starter + terminal
3: Same while cranking.
Write em down and post...
My 86.5 has a pump stock.
I also use the ACIS Reservoir plumbed into the CC circuit as the bigger cams don't make as much vacuum and on long uphills my motor would come on boost under CC and the pump couldn't keep up.
I just crank mine with the Ign off till I get pressure, holding the throttle open will help here as the 340 will make 160ish Psi cranking so fills the Converter pretty quickly.
Where the forged will win hands down is in detonation resistance.
In an ideal world your motor wouldn't see either a Lean condition or Detonation but we don't live in that world ;)
Quake: Yep there abouts, I leave the screen on and my Pan has a labyrinth around the pickup so I can keep it a little higher that I normally would.
10>15mm in a normal pan and if you remove the screen I'd trim the inlet so it's on an angle.
Suze: One probe to a good ground the other to the Starter + terminal then have someone crank it (might be an idea to pull a fuse so it won't start)
Watch what V you have sitting then cranking.
(this will be a good indicator of how good your chassis ground path is)
Most times GTE owners...
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