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dunno why, but I like a good non-digital meter, makes it easier to see the changes without it jumping around in ranges rapidly... expesive multi meters can also be used with circuit boards and sensative electronics without frying them... but I don't need them often enough to warrant me...

looks like one... clocking the turbo isn't hard, and maybe they thought be was gonna run an adapter on the stock manifold? then it would be fine...

they don't run a BOV or a BPV on competition engines because it causes lag they aren't worried about longevity...

fixed

sounds siezed, or you're not doing it right undo the lock nut and bolt, and then you can put a wrench on the rack to hold it from turning, then rotate the tierod off while you're there, you might want to replace the rack boots...

blocks where changed before 90, my 89 had the stronger block...

not torque to yeild, but they aren't going to take the higher torque values you need when running high boost.

NOT BUBB RUBB NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

or even worse, to plot the cutting course for the machine... whole time I was thinking "ok wise guys, how are you gonna cool it?" open deck block is the only way to do it...

LOL, more weight...oh well, MORE BOOST I don't have any issues throwing this car around, and it's my DD and I do roadtrips in it, so creature comforts come first... on a side note, I've had to pull the driver's seat twice, thank god I have a targa so I could lift nearly straight out...

I've seen cars that sat for YEARS brought back in the same way IJ said... as long as there isn't any pitting on the cylinder walls, and the rings don't sieze, the rings will usually wear themselves in again...

I've met some of the BEST people through Supras. And that's ALL generations. There was a really cool guy with a MKI in Houston for 2K7, met lots of fun MKIV owners as well. MKIII owners though, they're the ones that will help you push your car or lone you tools. I've met some bad apples...

saw a set of JDM seat on ebay in my color, but I want em so the g/f can have full power as well...

studs will cause less stress to the threads in the block. you HAVE to use a blind tap to clean the holes in the block so the studs will seat FINGER TIGHT. If not, removal will be...damn impossible... Studs are VERY cheap insurance, and will help line up the gasket and head...

koyo is a VERY large supplier to OEM's... it's the stock replacement one stock radiator is fine for most people...but I'm going Koyo Racing oh....within the week (Texas heat is causing me to run hot)

it's possible, but it's a lot tougher if it's the complete engine in the car with everything on it... now, engine out, no exhaust, no hood....you're looking at rust...

because they will...on the highway

same differances as the 7M AFAIK... having some water int eh catch can after a HG job is going to be normal, moisture has to burn off, ect... (most ever engine I've seen that has been apart smoked a bit on the first startup) did you change the oil after doing the HG? Not doing that will...

bumpstops or diff more than likely... mine does it too at full lock..

sell me the cooleeze stuff :P doesn't sound bad, if the body is straight, chassis is sound, and all it has is a BHG, it's a steal... BHG's aren't expensive, rod knock on the other hand... first thing I'd do is the targa seals though, trust me on this, I wish I had done them as my first...