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well, they do show some dyno results supposedly from SCC, but who knows... I'd try em on a dyno and return em, if they didn't refund I'd file suit and shut em down... Not gonna fall for it personally, but I'd be interested as spark plugs are as old as the internal combustion engine itself...

hit a curb hard enough (in your case probably spun out and smacked the curb) and they'll bend had one on my truck, sucked royally... they CAN be repaired, but saws are cheap...

I use the online TSRM and EPC's (dealer peeps love me, I walk in with part numbers). I have a Haynes manual, but VERY rarely use it (stopped using it when I read the procedure for valvecover seals... tighten until snug isn't exactly the proper torque spec)

STi's are slow, Evo's are slow... 7M = torque monster, something both of them don't really have... stock 1J will do more than a stock 7M, but let's not get into the 1J/7M debate...

ok, now I've HAVE to get me some prosports... hey, what gauge pod are you using? looks like it's mounted to the column...

stock block is good for those numbers, stock rebuild would be the cheapest as well... conquest with a 2J? dunno if it will fit, or if it would even take the strain of that power as they're not that well build (from what I've seen and messed with) let's us know how it goes though, sounds...

drain and refill the oil, dunno if you should crank it to get the oil into the oil passages, but it's better than rust in your engine I guess...

well, there is a spark plug design that would increase power output, it used an electical wind to force the flame front in the direction wanted (generally straight down) these? well... I could see how it could work in that you want the largest gap you can run, but once you have seriously...

they used to do digital, think they're discontinued (think the only one is AFR now...)

there's a lot that you could part out on that parts car as well... sell the SR20 for profit (clean it up, elbow grease is free) and get the supra running strong. SR20's aren't as good as you'd think, too much damn hype (along with rapidly inflating prices of 240's)

whaletail for MKIV looks like ass from behind, totally screws up the ass of the MKIV IMHO...

DON'T put it on jackstands or anything, just undo the bolts, bolt em on and drive... the weight of the car will keep everything together...

the EGR ports like to clog with carbon over time as well...

geez people, it's simple... 1) NEWER 2) parts are used on more cars How many SC300's do you see daily? It's a MKIV without turbos and a different body... Now, a car that has the same underpinnings of the MKIII isn't as numerous in the states. It's also simple supply and demand...

the wing was actually needed for the high speeds the MKIV was capable of... well, at least that's what Toyota said way back then...

O'Reilly's usually carries a couple different brands, NEVER get the cheapest one, get the one that has the longest warranty... brakebest isn't that bad, but if you're really picky you can go OEM (tons of places online sell the OEM aisin master...)

everything that in the normal dash, but the TEMS display is MUCH cooler...

yep, it's not cheap...

you can just unbolt the axles and driveshaft, and then unbolt the pumpkin and drop it down (not light, be careful!)

lex/550 should do 15psi EASY...