haven't seen anyone have issues with normal brembo blanks
it's when they get the ebay crossdrilled brembos that I've heard of failures...
crossdrilled will crack, don't know of any rotor on the market that won't under hard brake use (track use)
get one or the other, not both
crossdrilling isn't recommended as they crack
slots will wear your pads faster
brakes aren't there to look good, they're there to make you stop, don't compromise!
granted, but as long as you don't runn out of air/fuel you're fine...
personally, I'm building my car for decent power (BPU form ATM), but will be shooting for a 400hp DD eventually...
500 is great and all, but at that level if something goes wrong it's just too expensive for me...
I...
I tossed the haynes on a top shelf after reading the procedure for replacing the cam cover seals...
it says tighten the bolt until snug. Yeha, if you want them to leak, go right ahead...
gearing takes care of the rest (look at the TPI F-bodies with their ugly rearend ratio, they're fast because the gearing keeps it in the low end torque range)
not attacking you, but it brought up a good point about how to get to the required number...
I'd love a destroked 7M...
I agree. Also, if the diff isn't giving, something else has to. It's not just going to wear your tires. It will wear the axles, bearings, ect...
In the end it would be cheaper to go with an LSD rebuild than replacing axles and bearings...
better beam pattern > brighter or different color lights
Cheap ebay housings (and most DOT housings) all suck compared to a good e-code that it properly designed to put the light where it should be...
all you need to do is wait for full oil pressure...
not saying rag the piss out of it right after startup, but driving normaly (and I don't mean normaly as a supra owner)
I'll let it warm up only if it's freezing or hot as hell outside (get the heat or A/C going), other than that, it's...
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