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ok, the FPR (on the front of the fuel rail) has a hard line that goes over and down through the manifold, then goes to a rubber line that goes into the J-tube (it's a tube mounted to the block). The tube has a restriction in it so that if the FPR fails, you have enough pressure to get home...

yes, back when they used to race a lot more...

a lot of time there is felt strips between the panels, over time and wear they desintegrate, replace em and it helps a lot... also look for any missing or loose screws TIGHTEN YOUR SUBFRAME BOLTS! It's my personal crusade to get everyone to do this, as it's cleared up 99% of the issues...

ahhh... that will cause a lot of issues...

TRD makes nothing, it's all licensed out... gonna be made by one of the major brands...

yeah, I got a supermonitor from the junkyard...too bad some fool made off with the dash, so all I have is the box...

broken stock DP, ask me how I know :3d_frown:

Turbo-A had it right behind the Turbo-A duct... it's best if you can get open airflow though...

royal purple's water wetter is the only one rated to protect like coolant, but they still recommend coolant... just making sure you don't do what the previous owner of my used engine did (the head was eaten pretty badly, so badly infact that a HG won't seal)

I agree, but he did ask for opinions LOL

fuel cut with pop a CEL and it's more like going about 15mph in first gear and repeatedly stomping ont he gas pedal. It's VERY violent (will spill drinks). SOund more like you're getting spark blowout or a miss (probably running too rich). Did you drill out the J tube or bypass it?

bah, I like the nice aluminum piece... I think some people would be interested, I think it might have been buckshot that wanted to hard anodize the control arms...this would allow him to do that

it's gonna look too front heavy IMHO...

sounds like you have an exhaust leak or boost leak as the stock CT really spools pretty damn fast... could be going pig rich as well... the turbo may be tired as well and on it's way out...

standing burnouts, insain drifto....

OBD2 or up can do it easily...

ECU temp sensors is out?? hell yeah it's gonna run bad... it usually runs on the safe side (read : RICH and retarded timing)

yep, they can....

what water wetter are you using? only ONE is rated to protect vital cooling components... unless you what to destroy the bearings and seals in the waterpump, have your head eaten fromt he inside out, or your new radiator clogged with barnicles, get some coolant in there (toyota red is best)

no lifters... cam pushes directly on the valves (well, there is a bucket with a shim on it)