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they have decent resale value... I bought mine for $1K and sold it 8 years later for $2500 http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=16832.0

I'll probably keep my stock springs and get bilsteins... I wouldn't mind having a good stiff spring, but I don't need a lowering spring because of the bilsteins

it goes from the body (where the fuel lines are) to one of the bolts that holds the trannny to the block IIRC... the other one mounts to the tranny mount

depends how bad the BHG was... if the coolant mixed with the oil it can cause excess wear, if not, then it's probably fine, but might need to be straightened from overheating...

that 100amp fuse is a wire on some supras (never been able to figure out why, but I've seen enough of them like that to know it's more than likely factory) Someone must be selling a cheap ECU somewhere in the for sale section, I'd be pulling the feilds harness out and trying to just run it...

yep, heavier crank, so they lowered the redline... I know a few people that run the heavier crank becasue it's smoother, and use the older ECU so they have the same old redline. Works fine for them...

check engine light, brake light, and the battery light on all at once while driving means the alternator is on it's way out or is being diconnected somehow. check the wiring, if the wiring is fine, it's the regulator. it won't throw codes either (at least it didn't on mine), as it's acting...

shouldn't be buring coolant, it's nearly impossible for the turbo to burn coolant as it would have to have a cracked center section. if it is cracked, it's not rebuildable. sounds more like...BHG

I had issues like that with an old radiator hose... overheated and it ballooned as well :runaway: samco's and fixing the cooling system stopped it... (koyo radiator, new fan shroud, new fan clutch, new water pump, new radiator cap, new t-stat, samco hoses) it was expensive, but the...

too much clutch pedal freeplay? improperly assembled throwout bearing assembly?

off the top of my head, you'll have to switch throttle bodies (different TPS, and a different throttle body for the change), and a number of different sensors on the water neck accessories are different (power steering, ect) but will all bolt right up from the old engine

friend has a nice newer caddy with a northstar, it's been running flawless... I demand an engine bay shot!! the old engine bays are HUGE...with a big block and it still looks like a rotory in a MKIII...

sure are a lot of old toyota solid axle hilux's around... make a decent truck that's tough and it will eventually sell damnit I miss mine, gotta get me another some day...

newish 7M and many parts later, she's quite a bit faster... it's one of those "oops I broke it taking it off, UPGRADE or OEM" things... broke my DP, got a DDP, wiring harness was toast, got a new one, ect... now I have a boost leak that I just can't seem to fix, and a clutch that went...

yes... but no torque = no towing/hauling capacity might as well not put a bed on it... I said it failed horribly because it didn't sell (wonder why), not because it had mechanical issues.

how about racing a tiburon, get to about 120 and it starts to slow down, let off the gas and the rod knock is bad enough to shake the entire car it tries to die... tiburon flies past fucking tiburons

I like my stock springs, swaybars are the only really needed accessory to the suspension as the stock ones are weak... I want to lower my car, but the area I live in now has railroad tracks that almost bottom out my car now...

damn, nice find, it looks mean that low... I need to find a MKII...

IMHO it should help a lot, but I have better things to spend my money on ATM..

I have a feeling it's for the throttle linkage, but I'd have to check in the morning this stuff is easy if I can hold it in my hand, I've had my car apart too many times...