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If it were leaking, it would affect the A/C, in that it would make the inside of your car fog up even with the A/C on. This would be easy to fix, though, just take the two heater supply hoses off the back of your engine and bypass the cabin interior entirely. As long as you don't mind losing...

Agreed. Moved!

Tony, perhaps a change in the title to "Dealing with cracked 7M blocks" would be appropriate. I must admit, until I saw yours, I'd never heard of a 7M cracking the block either.

190 rwhp is realistic - remember, 230 bhp stock, with 15% driveline loss, and that's if it's in perfect condition.

Suze, this is called a phishing scam. They aren't really interested in selling you a car, or even getting the money from you for the car - they want enough of your personal information that they can drain your entire bank account. To this end they will build a very professional looking 'escrow...

Even a bad compression result isn't final. For what you bought the car for, you can put in an entirely new engine and still come out ahead. :)

I saw a setup with dual pipes running right next to each other at one time, both using a canister type muffler at the end. Looked pretty damn hot... dual exhaust without the American V8 look.

Glad to have you here. We're a pretty tight knit community, so we definitely try to make everyone feel welcome. I use the same method for the starter - extensions out the front of the engine and a box end wrench on the back. If it needs replacing, buy one from a 91 or 92, they have threaded...

IIRC, there is a fellow on Vancouver Island (nashman?) who has his down to around 1250kg.

Pics are back. PS: You know that SupraMania will host pics for you, right? The only limit is that you can only upload 5 at a time...

No, synthetic is good. For one, it doesn't 'coke' inside the turbo, like mentioned above.

Also, thinner oil will make it read lower - so 5w20 will read zero, where 20w50 will read high. What oil are you running?

Heheheh... just ask him to race 10 times. His bottle will be empty by about run #7. :)

Lagged, you are correct in my opinion. 88SupraTurbo, studs are better, but they are more expensive. Bolts are just fine, I have the bolts and no complaints from me. It should be safe to swap the bolts one by one, but there is still active controversy over the idea, so pick whatever you feel...

He'll be putting BIG rubber on the wheels, so gearing won't be affected.

Ideal - I agree on most points, especially when you consider that ARP head bolts are essentially the same cost and will take a LOT more torque. My local Toyota dealer quoted me $7 each for the headbolts. That's $98 total - I got my ARPs from Mopac for $95. My point is, folks running the stock...

Hate to say this, but there is some misinformation in this thread. Check out Reg writeup on the stock bolts here: http://www.suprasonic.org/public_html/sonictech/mk3/mk3_pmtn.html What this means, is that you can use the stock headbolts to 72 foot pounds without stretching them, thus...

That's funny - I like the radiator hose, as a matter of fact, it's one of my favorite parts there. :) Oh well, to each his own. dbsupra90, the power wire runs to his battery, which is mounted in the hatch.

I'm going to call BS on this one. There is only so much power from the coil to play with, and increaseing the amperage means dropping the voltage - and it's higher voltage that makes for a bigger spark.

Duane, that looks freaking AWESOME. Let me know when you are heading for the dyno, I'd love to come along as usual. :)