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I'd been looking for a set, forever. I did not want to send mine off to get "chemically" treated/stripped like some of the others. Those other European ones come out to about $120US, before shipping. Ordered mine from the Wolf ;-) Either way, I am glad that the options are out there now.

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Below is the info I had added to the Fuel Filter FAQ deal on SF... Hope it helps. The only additional thing I'd add is that you should spray some PB Blaster/WD40 in key places, prior to removing. I know that this is probably a rusty-sort-of-area on cars in Northern areas...

FYI... That's about $54US, depending on exchange rate. I'm in for at least 1 set, but would get more, if there's a shortage/limit where these might run out (limited production run, etc).

Not entirely sure what's weaker, but I think they may still be referring to the rods (that have been brought up a fewtimes). The blocks are basically the same and so is the crank. If you replace the pistons/rods with GTE ones, then I do not see what else is left that may be weaker.

I usually avoid these hot debates, but... Filtration systems are designed for certain "ideal" conditions. That being said, I have my own doubts that this small-@$$ filter can do 10+ years, without some clogging/ (diminishing returns). Sure the interval does NOT need to be every year, but...

I have a local friend (Mike) who got a BHG on his NA-T. I would recommend swapping the pistons, to address the compression, instead of a thicker HG. A used set of GTE pistons runs about $100 and if ya need to later, you can easily find a standard/stock thickness HG. I was showing Mike the...

Damn Nick!! I dunno where I've been, but am just now catching up with your build. Throw some pics on here and let us know where you are at with things... Sounds good so far.

^^Well there you go. Get a 95+ N/A engine and go NA-T with it.... As an interim step. If it's not what you want, then at least you have things done most of the way. When the time comes for choosing, you can throw a GTE head on there and go that route. Either way, the N/A has about the...

Rods are the same and there are differences in the oil-feed/drain locations, oil pressure switch is different size (used a 16x1.5 plug to close the hole), oil pump does not have the deal for the crank angle sensor, and a few other minor differences. I guess the question is, why do you ask...

^^Is the only difference the turbo badge in the passenger-side rear corner?

I have a similar issue in that I have connectivity from the sensor to the dash, but the guage or sensor is not working. Wiring is good. Try these diagrams that we saved from Rick's old site. They have the wiring mappings for 1JZ-to-MKIII swap. Hope it helps...

Got the rebuild done... now to fasten things up in the interior and button up a couple of other things. First rebuild, first startup... looking good so far. http://www.geocities.com/g099521/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/SatanRemix/re-swap/rebuild.wmv

I started this thread on SF earlier this week, thinking it would be a simple "no-brainer" kind of deal. However, I have not found a definitive answer and was hoping that someone with working A/C after their swap, would chime in and help us out. Anyways... the info from that thread is...

Ryan and his wife came out late. Hadn't seen them in over 2 years. Ross is awesome! Had I thought to get my block and pistons from him sooner, I probably would've been done. I saw some of the other pics of the events... still regrettin' not making it out to all of 'em, but I gotta stop...

...Awesome stuff. Been working on mine all weekend, to try and make the next event. Do we still have the weekly get-together in Addison? Will make it soon... Teaser of what I got accomplished... http://www.geocities.com/g099521/MKIII/2JZ_SWAP/SatanRemix/re-swap/hellyeah.jpg...

Your only other option is to trace each one and determine what's at the opposite end.

...just an update. The US GE block has a large port/opening for the oil Pressure switch, which is on the block, by where the A/C compressor is. A power steering union bolt's thread fit, but it's too long and has it's holes as well. The smaller threaded one for the JDM GTE block would not...

I am curious as well... I was always worried that there might be some differences, because of the seat's orientation in a JDM car. Location of handles, knobs, etc. It may all be the same, but before tossing $$ out there, I would to see a side-by-side comparison of the seats.

I've seen those at Lowe's and they come in a variety of diameters, but I have not seen 'em that large. I was gonna use a 1-2' tube of that stuff to make an enclosure for my 8" sub. I'll go look for a larrger one again... I may try to do something this weekend.