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Any new status on the brackets/hardware to get these on my MKIII... I'd be willing to get a few sets, if it helps offset the cost for others... E

I have 3 ECUs (probably killed them all) and almost won an auction for another (~30 shipped). Can't complain, since I've got them free or REALLY cheap. Now, went for an alignment and need lower control arm bushings and balljoints. Not much else left to replace/fix, since I've done just about...

'Kay. So with the '91, I now need some front lower control arm bushings. Since the '90 was fine, I got rid of my Obtanium set and now wish I hadn't. Where can I get some front lower control arm bushings and have them in a reasonable mount of time? If they are aftermarket, please also link...

I've been avoiding the daytime, like a vampire lately. Glad that you got it figured out and glad that there weren't any heat strokes. Gonna play around with switching my ECU as well (again). Need to make a call and see if I can borow another known-good one as well. CONGRATS!!

Got my exhaust closed up. Wasn't specific enough about them replacing a section, so they used part of the smaller 2.5" pipe I had jerryrigged in place and added some 3". Will have to go back later for them to fix. Alignment gets done tomorrow. Was fun gettin' out on the highway, but could...

It's called the nickel & dime method. You don't make any major purchases (without her knowing it). A $50 part here or there, is often overlooked or does not sound off alarms. Eventually, you have spent alot more than you even thought of, but since it was not all at once, it's seldom noticed...

Try it at the ECU. I somehow removed/cut the wong wire at the diag box (being a bit hasty) and ended up installing a switch at the ECU (for now) to toggle into diag mode, from inside the cabin. Once everything's kewl, I'll move it to a more convenient place when the ECU is hidden. I have...

I have removed the old lens off of mine and am getting ready to head to the auto parts and pick up some chrome paint, bulbs, and the Loctite 595 (or equivalent) shown in the write up. If I can't find that Loctite, can anyone else suggest something that they've used that WON'T come off after...

AWESOME!! I am also needing to get an alignment done this weekend, exhaust work too.

Put some ~.025ish gapped plugs in and runs MUCH better. Still a slighter sputter, but probably related to the open exhaust. Took it for a "maiden" voyage. Only a couple of miles but was able to hit 65, fill up the tank, and make sure blinkers/lights did their jobs. Gonna have to finish some...

Just saw something recently about someone else's woes with sputter. They had to gap their plugs down to .025-.028... I currently have mine at about .032. Too late to do anything tonight (just getting home from work). I'll swap 'em out with re-gapped ones tomorrow and see. Dang Jon...

I swapped ECU and still had the same symptoms, 'cept it did not shake alot at idle. I could hear the sputtering, etc., but the engine did not seem to bounce-around as much and was very steady. I am believing my injectors are a factor as well. Looking for a replcement set to see what I can do.

Resoldered everything coming off of the E10. I only have a butt connector on a temporary wire coming from the coolant temp sensor now. A/C blower's working and the temp gauge is good too. Did get a code 78 this time 'round (Fuel Control Signal), so need to re-check to see why (I may have...

Spent too much much to remember (or admit to)... Though I did get crazy and spent another $20 a few weeks back for a fuel filter ;-)

Picked up an E9 and E10 connector today from an SC300. Will replace all of my old wiring/solder with the strands from the E10 connector I just picked up. I'm also going to double check the dash connections. When I borrowed another 2J ECU, it had the same sputter, so at this point I am...

TRD87T helped me do some troubleshooting the other day and I'm having very similar issues. Looking more like the connection/wiring AT the ECU. This is why the car would start up when I swapped ECUs, but have the same issues later. Car would turn-over and not start and he saw that the...

I've had similar issues and have got it to the point where the idle does not bounce anymore, does not run too rich, and can rev past 2K RPM. Mostly because I adjusted the TPS. However, even after changing out the plugs, it seems that it's sputtering/breaking-up at anything over 2K RPM. A...

^^Broke one off in the wife's MKIV and couldn't drill that beeyatch out (broke the easy-out in it as well). Ended up replacing the caliper. After that, no speed bleeders for me. Maybe if I was autocrossing.

^^ I used the actual jug/container that the brake fluid came in. Drilled a hole in the cap use a vacuum line, and loosen the cap to vent. Free and MUCH better than the kits with magnets and Fed-up hoses.

You got it! I have "accomplished less" and "spent more time/$" doing other stuff. Example: I had bought 3+ 1-man brake bleeder thingys ($6-$10 each) which don't work worth a damn (ended up making my own), and still had spongy brakes after hours of trying to bleed 'em. Would've gladly changed...