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That's another good thing.. Shipping about $8.17 and handling about $2.50... Can't seem to go wrong with $170 steering rack, after shipping. Still have to return the core tho. Too good to be true? Worth a chance/risk? I will likely place the order tomorrow. Just waiting to see if there's...

Actually... there is some seepage/leaking at the rack that I can see. Found that inner tie rods are about $50-$75 each. Since it's one of the "only" non-new parts on the car, I think I'll just replace the rack all-together. Seems to be running $280-$442 for a reman unit, but I found this and...

Thanks... I did not think of that. I don't have the TRSM here at work... How hard is it to change the inner tie rod? Or, if the inner tie rod is knocking (has some play), then is it probable that there is another issue which caused that?

Yeah, that's what they found wrong and I fixed... tightened castle nut and a nw cotter pin. Still knocking at the boot... had the wife move the steering wheel while I traced the sound/play. Replace the rack?

I searched... I have a knock in the rack, right at where the rubber boot is on the driver's side. It is present when I turn the wheel at slower speeds and is DEFINITELY not a grind. Had it checked out a couple of weekends ago and the shop found that the lower ball joint nut was coming...

I was going to put it up against the firewall like on the MKIV, but changed my mind after this thread... http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=514936 This was my contribution, after mounting the ECU in the same place as the 7M's...

The ones in red are the ones I replaced in mine. The blue-ish circled ones are where you only have 1 bushing from the kit. The other bushing is a special one with a weird name that starts with an H and is considered a type of joint. Can't remember which one it is on the hub, so I circled...

Anyone get some of the front sway bar ones yet? Where's the best place to get 'em from? I am not finding them using the part number above.

Unless I was going to change the front and rear seals, I wouldn't pull the engine. I disconnect the knock sensors and other wiring going below the head, disconnect the harness at the ECU, then remove the head with the manifolds/harness still on (only taking things apart that would keep the head...

Very nice work so far. I am geting ready to drop a 2J N/A into an MKIII and will use he R154 w/1JZ BH. Were you able to use the 2J N/A flywheel and a clutch kit for the 7M? I thought I'd heard that the 2J N/A clutch would work as well.

No prob... just info for others. I did not want to wait on the machine shop wth mine. They took a couple of weeks w/the head (valve job and valve stem seals). So I did not have any extra time for it.

When I used the GE block to replace my FUBAR-GTE one, I opted to not drill/tap the oil feed and just used a longer oil feed line to an available port my oil filter relo kit. I am actually waiting for the new rings/bearings/gaskets to arrive to finish rebuilding the GE and a GTE blocks I have...

Inspecting the crank is going to be key. I had a slight rod-knock once in a Celica and we just changed the bearings and it was okay for many more years/miles. It was easy to change 'cause the oil pan was easily removed, but on any engine in a Supra, it'll take a weekend for sure (if things go...

GE piston on the left and GTE piston on the right. Connecting rods are the same, etc...

If there's no hole tapped for the turbo oil feed, then it's probably a GE block. Also, the oil squirters won't be there either. I'll take a few pics and post them up later.

Hey guys, wuz up? Looks like ya'll have got things handled, but jsut adding some info, hoping it's helpful. I have the 2JZ TT and GE blocks/pistons sitting in my garage. The TT pistons are different than the GE. Matter of fact, when my TT block got FUBAR, I replaced it with a GE block...

I once had the AM1 and AM2 fuses blowing because of a short in the engine harness. It was sitting on the inside of the intake manifold and a few wires got burnt. Found that everything was fine until I wentto turn on the parking/head lights. It would immediately blow. I removed the headlight...

It is a medium grey, even tho there are different shades of it used throughout the interior. Only in the 90+ ones was the shadow grey offered (pictured below... as close to black as you can get). I suggest that you get whatever dash is available and just repaint it to match. I've...

The 1JZ and 2JZ IAC valves have different mounting points. I was looking to maybe fab something up, if the flange did not fit onto the manifild. I will make some comparisons and take pics today (while doing some other work). I wouldn't recommend buying a new one until you know that it's...

Makes sense to leave as stock and let the potential buyer take the next step if they want to. Since I'd be replacing the rings/bearings anyways, it wasn't gonna make much of a difference to me anyways. You're right, still can't anticipate what the buyer' plans might be.