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so you think i should try and raise the tps enrich a little bit? increase or decrease gain?

not too sure about the spark knock, but from what i gathered it could be that you clutch is starting to go. when mine did, it happened all of a sudden with very similar symptoms that you have

very nice. what do you think of the plx? i was considering that before i went maftpro

i finally got my maftpro installed last week and had a few questions to throw by you guys 1) according to the manual it says your tps reading should be 0.40v when the accel. pedal is released... mine is 0.30 what could the issue be? is this a problem? 2) while im driving at cruising speeds...

i finally got my maftpro installed last week and had a few questions to throw by you guys 1) according to the manual it says your tps reading should be 0.40v when the accel. pedal is released... mine is 0.30 what could the issue be? is this a problem? 2) while im driving at cruising speeds...

yes sir.... what wideband will you be going with? overall im pretty satisfied with the lc1 i got with the maftpro kit

if you happen to get radials, when you get the tires mounted and balanced... be sure to tell the guys at the shop to put the tires on the correct wheels.... hahaha last time i got a new set they mounted the two passenger side tires on the RR and FL and the others on the driver side so now the...

im not that familiar with the e-01 but i dont see why you cant use the maftpro and the e-01 as long as you dont get the boost control package. i dont think the two have anything to do with eachother. someone correct me if im wrong

but still the ignition cylinder has nothing to do with a bhg. im pretty sure there isnt anything back there that gets hot. its pretty bizarre

oh and to inspect your tps follow the procedure here http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=101 youll need a good set of feeler gages and an analog or digital multimeter (analog recommended) it makes it a little easier to do this if you remove the throttle...

check again for water after you drive the car a little bit. if it accumulates again check that hose behind the head between the firewall and the #6 cylinder. often that hose deforms from the heat of the head and could rupture, which could be the cause of water in that spark plug hole. if that...

you said your key gets red hot? ive never heard of that

if i were you i would buy yourself a nice set of metric combo wrenches and if you have the extra money, a set of metric ratcheting wrenches (come in handy for those tight hard to reach areas). every time i mess with the fuels system, i replace every washer, seals and o-ring that has been...

check your tps to see if its adjusted properly. check the tsrm to find the proper adjustment procedure. if im not mistaken, you mentioned that there was water in the spark plug holes. there shouldnt be any water there unless you accidentally spilled some. that should be addressed as well

hahahaha... i guess your right. but i say dont fix it until its broken.... i blew my motor and then had the excuse to open it up. your right tho.. better safe than sorry

yea when mine was acting up... at idle it would stay at normal temp, but when i stepped on the gas the temp would go down, and while coasting it went all the way up. no idea how that happened. but after i fixed the wire, everything was all good

very true, but if he wants to make very noticable power improvements, that would be a good route to go

i would go for the maftpro with speed density. i just installed mine and im loving it. they sell optional kits for boost control and wideband tracking (which is vital to tuning). it comes with a handheld display or you can directly hook it up to your laptop to make adjustments. and its a...

i agree.... but what about us whose blanket is falling apart and dosed in oil from past bhgs. i feel my blanket is more of a hazard than protection

hahahaha.... good luck