i had a similar problem a few years ago that drove me nuts. the car would start fine. then after driving a bit the check engine light would go on and the idle just started surging from 800rpm to 1800rpm and back. i also didnt get a code. it turned out that my afm was no good. i swapped it...
88t, you were right about the ground wire... thanks
that was only one of my problems tho. the ballast isnt any good. im gonna try and see if i can get a new ballast.
thanks for your help
-pete
hmmm... ill have to check that out. that actually makes sense in my case. when i checked for power in the ballast connector, and i grounded it on that wire, i got nothing. but when i grounded it to the chassis, it had power. ill check that out tomorrow.
thanks
i know ive tried everything. everything is getting power, which is why im having such problems finding the cause of this. when i went to ckanderson (who i got them from).. he said go to general discussion, and so far i havent found anything. thanks for your help
-pete
i just tried switching the ballast from problematic headlamp (passenger side) with the drivers side ballast. the passenger side headlamp didnt fire at all and the drivers side headlamp showed the same symptoms as the the passenger side did before i switched them.
i thought maybe i shorted...
electrical wiring is not my specialty but i the wiring on this install was pretty straight forward. the connector on the passenger side is getting a constant 12V when the lights are on. but the bulb is not staying on... it just dims after a second or two until its completely out. i thought...
suprahero, i had the same issue as you. the brights only worked on the drivers side. my fogs didnt work. actually, when i pressed the foglight switch the drivers side bright worked, but not the passenger side. i recently did the sogi foglight rewire and the brights work as they should...
i am also interested in this... id need some more details before i would agree to test it. i am also a mechanical engineering student familiar with stress analysis and some vibration analysis. if you need any help with the design, feel free to pm me.
-pete
this sucks. my cluster lights work when the lights are on. i just dont want any future damage. i dont know where to look.
all i know is that is directly related to the brakes because they only flash when i apply the brakes.
i bypassed the lamp failure box in the trunk because my brake lights...
ive actually been having a similar problem. the only thing is that it happens when the car is off.
i get in the car and step on my brake before i turn it on. the gauge cluster lights start to flicker. it only happens for a minute or two. and then it stops. when i start the car, it may...
when i set mine up, i grounded the 2 wires from the lc1 onto one lug and the maftpro on another. just make sure to sand down the metal before you tighten the lug. there may be some corrosion or paint on your ground surface.
if you read the directions from the lc1, from what i remember you have to ground the two wires at the same point. i just bolted them to the body under the glove box. i have a newer lc1, where there is an extra wire and the wire colors are different.
my maftpro takes the same amount of time to...
thanks... i was wondering the same thing. im changing out my oil cooler in a few weeks and dont want to find out i need new ones when i go to put the new one in.
where did you order the lines? what kind did you get?
i actually had a weird problem over the summer with that. when i was on the highway and boosting around 12-14psi my check engine light would come on after the run, and then shut off after i cruised for a bit. sometime i would even blow off a vacuum line. i wasnt hitting fuel cut. not sure...
hmmmm..... not sure about that but im running the maftpro and have never hit fuel cut. so you probably dont need the fuel cut defender if you tune it right. but i would up either get bigger injectors if you want to raise boost safely
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