i have a 3" RT hi-flow cat i purchased years ago (dont remember where) when i first bought the car. the stock exhaust was rusted to hell and i had to do something. i have test pipe that i normally run, but when i get "inspected," the mechanic says i need a cat (or something that looks like a...
if you have no idea what your doing, then go and get it tuned professionally. read up in the piggyback section if you think you can figure it out. its pretty basic if you have a laptop, and the maftpro is hooked up to a wideband
good luck keeping your wiring harness. had open dp for a week and the original wiring got even worse than it already was. i got a new one from toyota anyway. but keeping the exhaust open made it a lot worse.
-pete
ok thats all taken care of... but there is another problem. my other motor, which is currently in the car has already been overbored. and the probes i got are .020 over. so i either need to find a new uncut block (which is harder to find than you think), or new pistons. if i do find someone...
yea at this point it doesnt matter with this block. im in no rush since ive got to find a new block anyway.
anyone have an extra block in good condition that you want to sell? hahaha
-pete
i just checked out three auto parts stores, autozone only had two bolts in stock. not sure what else to do. i dont have any m12 x 1.25 bolts.
so it would be a bad idea to use two arps and two bolts?
i guess ill check a few places tomorrow.
-pete
the stablizer i bought that hooks up to the hoist has 4 short chains with 90 degree metal tabs that look like they should be bolted to the surface of the block (or head). i want to hook it up like that so it would be more stable, but im worried that since i dont have the head on there, i might...
im about to pull my motor out now.... but i have a problem. my cylinder head is at the shop and as far as i know, the head has to be on the block for you to lift it. how else, or what mounting points can i attach the hoist to?
also, how can i remove the crank bolt? the car is in gear and ive...
im about to pull my motor out now.... but i have a problem. my cylinder head is at the shop and as far as i know, the head has to be on the block for you to lift it. how else, or what mounting points can i attach the hoist to?
also, how can i remove the crank bolt? the car is in gear and ive...
theoretically having an odd number of spokes increases strength and longevity of a wheel. i believe this makes sense for someone like us who drive street cars, but a rim constructed of a lightweight alloy with any even number of spokes may be more likely to get dented or damaged
fuel cut around 4000k is not a good sign. have you done any work to the car recently that would be somewhat related to the problem your having (engine mechanical or fuel related)? stock injectors... aftermarket? check resistances on them with an ohmmeter according to the tsrm. think they...
you have to be leaking fuel at a rate of 1mpg. how can it be running good? if there was no leak you should theoretically be hitting fuel cut all the time.
unless you have an injector or two stuck wide open which could explain your idle problem and losing power after 4000 rpm.
get those...
well first thing i would do it fix that exposed pin.
and now that youve read those codes, i would check to see if your tps is working properly and that its adjusted properly. and then i would rewire you knock sensors.
thats just what i would do
-pete
lol.... i dont think its mechanically possible to get 1mpg.... really
an engine to ingest 1 gallon every mile is hard to believe.... unless someone popped a hole in his tank
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