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Yep, 3 mounts that are bonded to the glass... Might get away with just glueing it on, but it's your call...

touring is the replacement for the hyper...

IMHO the reason the MKIV's run faster in the 1/4 than us is the simple fact that they can get more tire in back... That and they seem to have LOTS of practice :D

Two different numbers in the EPC.... The turbo one WILL work on the N/A, but not the other way around if you look at the part numbers...

Injectors are aimed into the ports, putting them at the flange wouldn't do that...

Yep, the combination of water and coolant has the largest range between freezing and boiling compared to either one alone(one of the tests we did in high school). Pressure test the system. The pressure is what also keeps the coolant from boiling. Had it happen many times where a pinhole...

Mine starts coming on boost hard at 3K, full boost is a bit later but you also have an N/A-T so that will help..

- Ugly ass color (the blue) - WTF is with the HUGE hoods these days? It's a CAR not a truck - Headlights are too small - As with the normal one, the rocker panels nearly line up with the center of the wheel...and this can't be fixed with lowering, the entire design is shit and the car...

Body panels alone are worth that much... It's a delorean...

Best way to have a key cut is from the code on the passenger side lock cylinder. Copying an old worn key means that the new one starts out old and worn...

If it comes to Texas I'm stealing it :D I was looking EVERYWHERE for one of those before I bought my Supra, now everyone seems to have one.... it's ticking me off LOL

Depends how often and how hard he boosts... Also, modern turbos with anti-surge housings help combat it as well...

Top one isn't out of a supra... Cressida maybe?

Anyone that doesn't get heat pretty quick has a crappy T-stat (this is my own opinion, but I'm sticking to it). The Stant I had in my car took for-fucking-ever to warm up and get heat, new OEM T-stat heats up fast, I get heat, and keeps rock solid temps (stant would fluctuate, even on the stock...

If it grounds out it will peg hot, not gradually increase... If the upper radiator hose is that hard, you might have other issues...

Except for their paper EGR cooler gasket... The OEM exhaust manifold gasket is better as well. Anyway, a graphite headgasket (stock) is fine for the GE, just use the higher torque spec for the headbolts...

That kinda stuff is relaxing...

Rally cars down run BOV's, and I've seen several race cars without them. It's a tradeoff... but on a street car, use a BOV...

Tanya needs to move to Texas :D

Pics of OEM blanks?