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New rebuild, plus the above mentioned mods, if you push the boost until just below fuel cut, should net you ~325 at the crank, which is ~280 at the wheels. Keep in mind that this is all armchair dyno numbers, your mileage may vary, take it to a real dyno to prove it one way or another.

Glad I can help. :D

6 foot tall and 160 pounds? I'd just blow and catch the hatchet as he stumbled backwards. ;)

Neither of those things will make your car run lean without some help from another direction. I run an upgraded turbo - either a 60-1 or the 62-1, I still haven't measured it - it's going to well over 10psi and my AF ration at WOT is still below 10:1. The cam won't affect AF ratio at all. Now...

Boost, I was using the head bolt washers - the ones that go on your head bolts / studs. They are pretty thick, at least a couple mm each. I had three on each bolt. If you are using standard thickness washers, you would need a whole lot of them.

Dammit, I've been avoiding that thread... because it was posted twice, AND I can't imagine someone silly enough to think running without a knock sensor is a good thing! Now I'm going to have to go look. :(

Ok, now I understand the debate. You don't have to tune the car with this setup. The Lexus AFM allows 25% more air to flow into the engine with the same readings to the ECU. The 550cc injectors provide 25% more fuel, balancing out the changes from the Lexus AFM. Therefore, the car should run...

Well... you'll still run pig rich, but it shouldn't be any worse than a stock AFM and 440s, Toyota set the car to run pretty rich from the factory.

The only person in there being a jerk is me, and that was entirely tongue in cheek. Sorry, sometimes humor doesn't travel well over the internet. I'd like to see other examples as well...

Tacoma = north american market. Hilux = everywhere else in the world. Same truck.

/END thread

I've done it. I'll pay a shop to do it in the future, it was messy and a pain in the ass. I skipped most of the 'prep' work after I had the original windshield out, a shop sold me some glue that is built to bond to the original glue still on there. Worked very well. I was still picking glass...

I ran 20 psi on one for almost a year before I blew up the engine. Turbo was still fine.

I have three sets of cams here, and they all look like that. They all work fine too. Just to add a bit more reassurance. :D

Why do you have to replace the TB connector? Is it cracked?

I'll tell you one big difference from my point of view. If you drive your Supra up here to visit me in Canada, we'll both be happy and enjoy boosting around the city, viewing all the cool stuff there is to see up here. If you bring your machine gun, I'll be out looking at the wonderful sights...

Sure! It really depends on what kind of time schedule you are on, and how big the parts are. Only works on Aluminum parts as well. I did a mountain bike frame, cost me $100 CDN and took a week. It costs less if they can wait until they are doing a run of a certain color... or if you have...

I had a great time, the drive was a bit long in the morning, but the trip home was fun. Of all the weird coincidences to have happen, I ended up cravaning most of the way to the border with another pair of Mk3s - that weren't at the meet! I just found them on the freeway and we drove together...

I'm guessing 4-5 hours, I plan to leave here about 7am and stop for brekkie somewhere along the way.

Edited your thread title to fix the typo. :D