I told you where to go for the answers, and your response was this? If it's in a dyno thread, it's on a chassis dyno and that's WHP!
Do yourself a favor and buy a clue. The new LS series engine have ZERO ZIP NADA in common with the SBC's you messed with. SBC is a 50+ year old engine...
The stock setup is staggered... (gets larger at the 3000 pipe)
Same as usual, the outlet on the turbo is usally smaller than the throttlebody, so it has to get larger somewhere...
take a shoe box....
try to twist box...
remove lid of box...
twist box again...
tape a pencil to the front of the box...
twist and notice it does NOTHING.
Hell, the twisting action of your wrist in your arm is much the same, you're trying to brace the wrist to stop twisting...
No, you DON'T need heads or boost to get 400HP out of an LS1, do your homework (LS1tech would be a good start, try the CAM ONLY dyno thread)
And the 7M is a fine engine for it's age, it's idiots that expect a 20 year old, 200K mile engine to take double the PSI and abuse...
Optimas WILL vent if overcharged, so they SHOULD be in a sealed vented box just in case. The gasses batteries vent are explosive at very low concentrations!
I run one because they're very difficult to make leak (you'd have to smash it), and the case is stronger than a normal battery making...
They come with special gaskets... but they don't work and you should use the stock gasket.
They also don't come with bolts (go buy the studs for the O2 sensor from the dealer, DON'T use bolts)
Stiffening the front isn't going to do anything for the center of the car's flexing.
Also, you're comparing apples to oranges as it sounds like you had a 3rd gen f-body, and they use a mcpherson strut setup, not a double A-arm setup like ours.
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