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So should there be NO continuity at all between a full rad and chassis? Coolant is conductive; but, does anyone know how conductive? My rad may be isolated from the chassis with the exception of the coolant...? I guess the best test would be to drain it, then measure. I was hoping to get...

Hey, did those pics help out with the harness bar? I didn't hear anything more on that. If you did get it mounted up, you didn't post pics. Shame, shame... ;)

That's about the only thing it can be. I guess I should pull it out and put electrical tape on the sides and put an insulator on the top and bottom edges of the chassis. We have some really good edge insulation at work. Still hoping someone will be able to post their measurements...

Just for reference: The best I can get is ~3.4k. I'm sure some of the continuity is due to the conductivity of the coolant. That's what I'm hoping anyway... ;) I still can read a full 12v when grounding to the rad...?? If anyone else that has a similar setup can verify, that'd be...

This was isolated when first installed. I had to grind on the upper mounts a bit; but, was able to get it done. When I checked it, I was surprised that it was shorted and it's just been long enough that I couldn't totally remember. ;)

Thanks for confirming jj!

Hi all! I was just wanting someone to post what resistance they have from battery ground to your radiator. Mine is directly shorted and wanted to see what variances are out there if any. Just for reference, I have a Koyo. In case anyone is wondering why, my concern is stray currents...

^x2

HA! So much for it being the valve stem seals! :biglaugh: ;) Hold old and/or miles on that turbo?

Ok. I'm back from vaca so call anytime! :)

Here's my cell. Can someone give me a call Friday to let me know what time I need to be in Ellensburg? Thx... 509.528.3951

I saw a blue 89+ mk3 around 1:30 pm, heading east thru the dalles. It almost looked like it could've been kwNate's car. So...who was it!?!?!?

Ok. I stand corrected on "HAVING" to remove the head to replace the valve stem seals. BUT...if a valve drops in...you're definitely pulling the head. ;) I wouldn't do it without pulling the head; but, if it can be done, I can see it saving a LOT of work!

You should still do a compression and leak down test. As far as the valve stem seal replacement. It's not necessarily a hard thing to do; but, it is time consuming as you have to remove the head and all the valves, shims, buckets, and such... Definitely not the funnest thing to do. We're...

I still say valve stem seals... :)

Yeah, Ellensburg here. I lived in Seattle for 2 years so I'm somewhat acquainted with it.

I hear valve stem seals being echo'd... ;) I'm not sure if I understood the post about plugging your PCV. You DON'T want to do that. Not unless you want to blow out your main seals that is...

Yeah, if you guys can get a time lined out sooner than later, that'd be great! So I can plan my trip out as well.

Yeah, a compression check and leak down are worth a check. Even after a recent rebuild... Plus it's easy elimination.

Maybe that mustang guy that wanted to race for pinks and/or 1k$ put some salt in your tank... I'll bet he'll be showing up to race you now! ;) Back on topic... Valve stem seals? And of course a compression and leak down test.