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Your MHG has a minimum RA (roughness) requirement and your block and head surfaces need to be machined to that specific RA. That is more important than slightly lowering your compression.

They are plug and play. But don't take my word for it....check out the manual/instructions. ;) The richest that one will read is 10.0 so you may even be richer at wot. There's a saying....."Its better to be rich and retarded than lean and broke."

Also, learning to shift with my left hand would prove to be a chore. I'm like lefty retarded! :biglaugh:

Either I guess; but, I'd prefer a LHD. What I'd really like to get is a GT-R! There are some sweet Supras over there though. Similar to Nate's. Nate's is sexy! My cousin is a detective and I asked him about it today. He told me that if vehicular fowl play is suspected, an...

Has anyone done this successfully? I'm mainly referring to my own state, WA. There are a few nice MKIII's I would consider; but, don't know how much trouble it is to get one licensed over here. Or if its even possible without it costing as much as I'd pay for the car. One thought is to...

Don't ya hate that?! Fortunately, its easy to check. Jack the back of the car up and make sure they're all lined up. :)

Ha....missed that one. I stand corrected. Good catch jj! :)

Very true. A one piece would be cool! My 87 shaft spun on me. My u-joints are about an inch out of alignment. I have pics posted somewhere...

Read the second hint of step 7 here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=PR&P=8 If the driveline has been put back together correctly and it does not align as shown in the diagram, then the back half of your driveline has slipped and needs to be replaced.

Don't forget...The back half of the driveline is two pieces and can slip. Unless of course he's running a one piece that he didn't mention. ;)

You're in socal...? IF your car is a california car you DO have a second O2 sensor, though I doubt it's your problem. Here's a link for reference. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=118 What does the car do at WOT? Venting to atmosphere will cause...

Step 3. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=8

Well, the description is pretty vague; but, it could be u-joint(s), the carrier bearing, broken motor mount, broken tranny mount, the back portion of your driveline could be slipping, the engine could even be missing and seem like a vibration.... It could be a number of things. :dunno:

Good stuff right here!

This was my first ever dyno run. The car was un-tuned. I have since installed more goodies; but, here's what it had at the time of the dyno run. Greddy 20G @ 13psi Stock Fuel System except for Aeromotive AFPR Sparco Intercooler IC Hard Pipes Fidanza Flywheel HKS Super Dragger Defcon...

Yep. I confirm. Duane is running an auto. If the planets align and they do run...it'll be epic!

x2 on AFM ;) Converting to Speed Density will get you around it.

Have the head of the Banjo Bolt (or similar) machined down. Still keeping all six sides, just make it smaller allowing enough room for a socket. Unless you can source one that has a smaller head; but, the same shaft dimensions and thread type as the stock/original one.

I updated my Maft to v5.11 and my 'Tip In' problem went away. I was able to make a couple of low boost logs; but, the clutch was just not holding much above 10 psi. Still waiting on the new clutch...

I thought about using some of those resurfacing pads. I never thought of using files. After the ribs are off, just sandblast the factory powder coat off I assume...? I'm a decent wrench and a good electronics guy; but, machine/metal working I haven't done much of. I think I can learn...