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The caps don't look half as bad as the lowers. Thanks for the posts everyone!

Mo Tec's are MIGHTY powerful!

So once all the babbit material is gone, it's time to retire the cams?

So is one side pushers and the other side pullers? Have you beefed up your electrical system? I can see it already! PASSENGER: ....no more radio...no more heater...no more dash lights...no more massaging seat cover...WHAT JUST HAPPENED!?!?!??!?! IJ: ....she just hit 195*... :biglaugh:

I just set the oil pan two days ago and just this morning I remembered that I wanted to shim the oil pump a little bit. :slap: :3d_frown: So, I guess this brings up another question. When a head and cams get redone, do the cams get ground or are they just scrap metal? If they get ground...

^There ya go! :)

Agreed... I haven't measured it; but, my guess is that the fan startup current is what kills the fuse holder. The fans run @ 19.5 amps. The fuse holder had a 20 amp fuse it in. Startup current is more than 19.5 amps so it's basically a timebomb.

Will do. I am currently out of plastigauge. I guess that's a good excuse to get a bowl of ice cream and follow my favorite supramania colander-heads around. ;) Thx...

I'd say it's pretty close to 50/50. Some a little more, some a little less. None of them show heat exposure or run low symptoms.

Lol... :biglaugh: I wouldn't call it junk necessarily; but, there are two "must do's" when it comes to the FAL Kit. Replace the in-line fuse holder with a better one and insulate the probe wire. You may have to do that with other kits too...? Here's the fuse holder I upgraded to. Except...

I've done a lot of drywall work so I was considering filling the grooves with JB Weld then giving it a good polishing job. ;) Well, it sounds like I'm being overly concerned so I'll run it. Thanks Ian!

^Yup. Here's a pic. Lower left is my gauge. You can also see the FAL controller on the right, behind the fuse block.

This head has ~6k on it. I was surprised to see damage on 2,3, and 4 of the intake side. I'm pretty sure that my only option is to run it this way; but, is there anything I can do to help this or to prevent further damage? What do you guys think? I sure wish these heads were designed...

Actually, it's a must for radiator life. If the FAL Probe does not have the little rubber nipple on the end and touches the bracing in front of the rad, it will short the rad to ground. If the FAL Probe wire (which does not come insulated) touches bare metal anywhere along its route, it...

Electrical rubber should be fine. Coolant flows in to the radiator through the upper hose and out to the block through the lower hose. So, install your probe as near to the upper inlet as possible. I mount mine just behind the fuse block. There was an empty threaded hole there. I routed...

I just voted 'Other'. I say polish them. My second choice, like others have said, would be to paint match them to the bottom half.

That's normal. That's the type I have too. You want to install it as close to the radiator inlet as possible. On mine, I couldn't install it directly under the inlet because of the fan housing. IIRC, mine is about ~2" below the rad inlet. I'd go check; but, my rad is currently out of the...

Getting own by the dreaded 'Search' button... :3d_frown: Thanks Fuzz! :biglaugh:

I'll echo IJ here. If you can have both the head and block checked and surfaced (aka: machined) then run with a MHG. If you cannot have the machine work done, then an OEM with ARP hardware performs VERY well. Given that there aren't any other issues... As far as rolling the dice...I've...

Good...bad...? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MK1-SHORT-THROW-SHIFTER-FITS-86-92-SUPRA-MK3-7MGTE-7MGE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem58851e65e6QQitemZ380190483942QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f100