Search results

No problem, just keep it away from heat sources.

lol - ya, he's wrong. If you could open it that easily, so would your exhaust pressure, and it would take forever to build any boost.

It should be pretty hard, as long as it starts to open when you put ~6psi into the actuator.

Unless his CEL is burned out...

Agreed. Check to see if you have wires hooked up to both knock sensors under the intake manifold.

The only remaining issue is the high beam indicator on the dash, and yes, I think a simple resistor would solve that. The foglight rewire doesn't actually change where the fogs get their power from - just where they get their signal from.

You need to do the fog light rewire. I ran into the same problem when I installed mine. The problem is that the fogs won't turn on unless the headlights are on and in the low beam setting. Get that 12v signal from somewhere other than the headlights and the problems go away.

He's already broken... hmm... off the top of my head, anyway: - harmonic dampener - flywheel - some flywheel bolts - carbon fibre drive shaft - thrust washers What do you think is going to let go next? I'm thinking driveshaft to rear diff bolts. Maybe wheel studs. Maybe all the teeth on the...

2 problems... my desktop is damn big (ya, I know, I could resize it) AND it's NWS. :D

Agreed. However, after the break in period I'd sell that stuff cheap and buy the MAFT Pro and all it's goodies. Oh, wait... I already did that! :D

It's 7 years old and only has 28k miles? That's worth some extra coin.

I'd say a better oilpan, but I think there are better materials for that. However, something that bolts into the stock front license plate location and follows the lines of the front bumper would be awesome. So would a cold air intake box that cuts off the section behind the passenger side...

It can't be the cooler. Oil isn't sent to the cooler until after the rest of the system sees a certain pressure, specifically to prevent this. If your oil was contaminated, or low, or your oil pickup was starved during a long high G turn, this would happen.

Bad ground to the ECU. Are your ECU grounds in sad shape? They should be bolted to the rear underside of the intake manifold.

The wiring harness can be fixed - just pick up a bunch of electrical tape and some assorted housings and take some time to do it.

I'm using the Spearco as well, I get a low of about 72F at idle on a cold day. It's usually about 105F driving normally, and I've seen it hit 195F after shutting down and leaving the hood closed.

That would be an understatement. They stick like someone screwed and glued them to the road. As you know, my car is far from stock, so full boost in 1st gear while turning is a fair bit of torque, and I can only BARELY make them break loose under those conditions. It's pretty much impossible...

These are better by a significant amount, and those were fantastic.

Three things to check / replace right away. 1. Thermostat. 2. Radiator cap. 3. Overflow hoses - including the overflow pickup hose. Then burp and see if problems vanish. :)

He neglects to mention the wonderful battery life expectancy. Anyone feel like carrying a backpack of AA batteries?