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I mounted mine a bit further up the fender wall, but I don't see any problem putting it there. Just so long as it's far enough away from the turbo hotside that the wires won't have any problems...

Wear a toque. Or beanie, if you use the USA word for 'em. They are awesome for working on the car.

I work on my car in the rain. I'm going to be covered in oil, grease, and dirt anyway, what harm will a little water do???

Have you checked for codes? The temp sensor will throw a code if it's dead.

Exactly. You're going to need something to deal with this... until then, just keep your foot off the accel pedal!

6M here. The motor has been rebuilt, but not balanced. I've also had the mounts for longer than the motor, and it felt the same on the old setup as well, which was a 'from the factory' untouched bottom end.

Do the usual tests. Pull a spark plug wire, put a plug in it, and ground it, then crank and check for spark. Crack the fuel line fitting at the fuel rail open a bit, then jumper the fuel pump at the diag block. If you see fuel at the rail, you've got fuel pressure.

For this to be meaningful, you would need to know that your skill level with wiring and plumbing is about equal to or less than the OP. What is easy for you will not neccesarily be true for everyone else. I have no complaints or experience with his product. I have been forced to clean up after...

Personally, no, this is why I have the MAFT Pro boost control setup on the car. Good point. I don't know how common accuracy issues are with the MBCs. Never had a problem (That I noticed, anyway) myself, but you're right when you say that the cost of an EBC and the time to muck with it is...

Errr... when was the last time you leaned on your rear quarterpanel? ;)

I'm serious. Anyone can install and set an MBC in 20 minutes. Most people will still be fussing with an EBC for months. Unless you need the extra in-car adjustability, they are a waste of time and money. The OP certainly does not need the extra features. You have got to be shitting me. Zoon...

I dunno about subjective, it's rather easy to measure. For instance, my buddy with the DSM - at idle, his keys bounce around and cause a nasty racket, his rear view mirror shakes badly enough that you can't see through it, and anything loose in the car will shake. When he had TWO solid mounts...

The F-body guys are running engines that are inherently imbalanced. I6 engines are a very different system. The vibration with solids isn't bad at all - it's a lot better than a FWD DSM with one solid one stock setup.

Actually, I don't think 180 out would have any effect. I know it will run fine with the CPS 180 out... I was thinking more along the lines of 1 or 2 teeth out.

When mine did that, the brake / clutch switches needed to be adjusted - it wouldn't engage because the CC computer thought the brake was on or the clutch was depressed. I can't remember which one it was, but they both have switches that feed the CC computer, and they are really simple to adjust.

Did you crack the GTE engine apart before installing it? If so, how did you align the crank with the cams afterwards? How about the CPS, was that removed? If so, how was it aligned when reinstalled?

You're only 5 feet high? How do you drive with the periscope? ;)

Rusty targa top? If you've got rust problems up there, you've got more serious problems with rust pretty much everywhere else. I'd love to see someone do one of these out of plexi, that would be awesome. Tinted enough that you can still see out easily enough, but it cuts the sun... wouldn't...

I bought it from my local auto parts place, they have it in a bunch of sizes. You can get it online too - http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d90.html - the high temp stuff is the lower left link...

I'll be up there this summer. Well, Vernon anyway, and it's not a long drive from one to the other. If I'm lucky I'll be in the Supra instead of the minivan...