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That vid does not really show much. You should post some photos and state more about the condition of the whole car as a whole.

How hard is it to buy a registered RHD car in Canada and take it to the States?

It will stay a liquid untill you put pressure on with the head bolt install. Then it will turn hard, then really hard after the motor is fired and you get some heat into it. I used to fill casting pinholes in the cast iron cylinder jugs of an older Nitromethane Harley I raced. Then I just used...

This is my take on it. I have seen people try to use copperspray and permatex as a lazy way out. They think they can skip out on some prep work if they just swab on the sealer. Anytime we post about using an additional sealer other than the viton it should be stressed that it is not for getting...

Hey Aaron, porousity in the block can be repaired with 620 lock tite. All things being perfect I would not use any sealer, poor conditions on the block and I have used sealer on the block to make up for it.

If you can not dyno to see what rpm your motor starts to fall off. Then try starting at 5k every gear. then bump it up 250 rpms on then next pass and so on, untill you find the shift point that yeilds the best results.

There is a type of caulk that you could fill the hole with then drill and retap the hole. The caulk will remain in the crack and the tap will remove it from the threads. I cannot remember what it was called. But we used it many times to repair big scratches in hyd. clylinders on heavy equipment...

They may have given you the wrong puller. I use a universal 3 jaw gear puller.

HA HA! When I first seen that pic of the turbo and read AIR RESEARCH on the side, I thought "got to be off a Detroit" Cat did use them too. You could weight lift with it...

Clevite 77 made an assembly lube in a squeeze bottle that works very well for me. I have used it in every thing from my race bikes, 7m's, small engines, to all the diesels at work. Always worked well for me. Just choose one that has a proven track record.

Where do we get what info? All I was doing was agreeing that additional sealer is not needed. The viton is plenty if the block and head are prepared correctly. If your gong to skimp on the RA then by all means, spray on the lazy. :biglaugh:

Drop the motor into the 89, swap good parts to the 89. Good cosmetics is nothing if the the sub frame is gone.

What jdub said..

Damn, I just noticed your list of mods, are you really going to risk all that money and time you have in that motor over a dead turbo?

It will hurt. You will end up with parts of the bearing in your oil pan and then gall the rod or main bearings from the contaminated oil. Been there done that.

Figgie is correct on this all the way. I had a Harley that was 3.5" bore and 5.5" Stroke and would rev to 8k. It is all about Balance

Great MPH, break the 100 mark in the 1/8 you should be 125-130 in the 1/4. Thats enough MPH for a 10.50

You can get 6 inch mandrel bends at the diesel shop. Most of the larger trucks use 6 inch. Prob would rub the ground on most of our cars!

Here is the non biased answer you need. First fix your brakes, Second, What are your ultimate goals? Are you going to purchase a bunch of stuff that is good for 350 HP only to get rid of it all in a year or two for better stuff like most people here do. If you add up most peoples builds...

All you would be doing is taking money away from a real turbo upgrade that does not care about elbows.