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I wish I'd had known that they're so desirable, I threw mine away just because I didn't want to put it back on. It was in perfect shape too. :D

Sick! Who is that? Two things about the race against the yellow car. First, what's up with the yellow cars launch? Second, did the wheels come of the ground after shifting to second?

Just curious, what kind of money were you qouted?

That doesn't make any sense, it's like saying if you have a flat tire, your power mirrors won't work. :dunno:

Well, start with the obvious. Run your codes & repair as required. You can probably get your answer much quicker if you ask your ECU for its' opinion. :cool: If the problem still persists, start replacing you vacuum lines (very cheap to do, but your car will thank you for it), check for...

That depends on how much the mechanic knows about 7M's. If the repair manual states to remove the head (I'm not sure if does or not), but knows how to replace them with the head on, it should be cheaper or vise versa. You'll just have to shop around & see what you can find in your area.

Even though I have no coolant loss, no leaks, no BHG, I've decided that the heater core is on its' way out based on all of the symptoms others have had (matching to a T). For now I'm going to bypass it (I live in Florida). The problem only occurs when you first start the A/C, or when you...

would a bad heater core have anything to do with it? I've been searching the issue & came across the bad heater core symptoms (oily windshield), which I have. Bueller? Bueller?

vapor lock is when your motor is shut off w/ a piston coming to rest at the very bottom of the compression stroke. The air charge then expands from the heat of the motor so greatly that the starter can't turn the motor over. It usually only happens to high compression motors with stock...

That's why Ford uses it regularly. ;)

It does help. It takes the 'bite' out of the machine marks cut into the head & block by the copper melting & filling them in. Of course, this is a subject of controversy....

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2469&highlight=BLOW+MAF

Then you run a chance of your ECU recieving info though the KS cable that has been compromised by electrical noise, thus causing your car to run like shit.

Ideal, what's the status on this? You get it fixed?

I'm fairly certain that it's not air in the heater core / coolant lines. I've alrady had the waterfall sound. How many servos are there in the air mix box? Did you had the same problem? Thanks fellas

but what the hell causes a bubbling/sucking sound located behind the glovebox? It has to be something to do with the AC/heater as it's only heard when I first turn the AC/heater on or when I change the temp.

It's not your IC pipes, it's your knock sensors. First try to make sure that they're plugged all the way in by physically pushing on them (make sure that they're fully seated). If they are, re-wire them, it's not all that hard to do. If you still have boost leak like problems, start looking...

If I'm not mistaken, the Conquest / Starion IC has 1 1/2" in & out pipes, causing a big (really big) flow problem. I could be wrong, but I think I'm right.

Top & Bottom? Is the Bottom going to be 2.5"? Couplers & clamps included? How many couplers are required? Thru the fender or thru the hole in front of the AFM? What type (if any) of BOV bung? When will they be available? Just a few questions ;)

Could you cut & paste please. I don't have an account with 'them' because they're :greddy2: .