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i just tune into the local rock station...

lol yeah it was surprisingly they re-paved the road a month latter too!

well there's some pics of mine, it's the megan gt turbo muffler... and here's a vid clip so you can here it, i have full 3 inch w/ gutted cat if it helps make a decision. edit, i can also go make a video just for the sound.. but you can here it alright after i left off the gass...

oh yes must remove the shifter. t's super easy just make sure the rad is your so you dont damge that. i usualy unbolt the motor mounts from below the car, and leave them on the motor, this way when i drop it back in im tring to get the whole into a grove, U and not a O hole...

it's the same head, just different cams, im actulay running the n/a cames in my gte right now. the cps will bolt right into the distributer, ( if planned to swap electronics...) only down side is there i sone knock sensor on a ge. so you will have to do some research about that.. i...

it may boost fine with a bad bov, but then you beating the crap out of your turbo, thats why every one is saying dont do it.

well that actualy looked like it will support like a coolant temp sensor (possible to help w/ cold starts? & other running conditions.. ) maybe even more stuff then i could think of..

ive done that one, my bov didn't work good at all till i figured that one out..

eh.. bought my motor, ripped the head offin fvor to replace the hg, the hg was blow, head and block were strait.through arp's 85 ftbls.. last a good while runnin 14psi.. blew it in about 4 months.. had the head machined. was only .03 off or some thing small. took it to 25ra, and sand prped...

i doubt it because, the ecu has 92 written on it, the car has abs, the car is red, i was pretty sure with the turbo a, that since it was a map based ecu, that you didn't need to use the fcd, either way, i was under the impression that turbo a's had larger tb's a 3000 pipe that had...

ive worked with toyota ,gm, ford and land rover ewd's and by far toyota's are the best ive ever came across. color coded to the dot, bolt writing, they give you individuel diagrams for each system , along with entire system layout, and ground & power sources.. even some trouble charts...

well frank, thats a good solid point about alternator's i do remember that modern computers can control the out put of an alternator by the current at the armature i belive.. the way i was taught to test a battery was to load it, should crank engine for 15 seconds and not fall below...

yeah i think you just found it, thats a pre-89 needle with a 91is dash cluster..

91-92 had 160mph gauges weather na/turbo... im going to say it's a 91 ish gauge cause the redline is at 6200..

and some one didn't teach you nick? you will need to set it to check for amps, and then need to more then likely move your red lead over to the A side. dissconnect the negitive lead on your batterie, then hook a jumper wire up between the post and the cable, this way you dont blow your...

report her to your insurance company, she was obviously had some sort of road rage witch is illlegal,. worst comes to worse, sue her for any touch up paint needed. and i would also file a complaint with the officers. they should know how to handle upset teenagers.. and not to piss you...

*titain* cough, yeah, im hoping the bubbles stop , if not it's coming back apart.. (ive yet to really look today and i finished in the night.. soo wish me luck.. ~edit, yah i read the arp stuff, when i had the moly lube i touched them up to 85 w/ felpro style gasket. being that...

umm... im pretty sure ive meet keith at the portland meet, i dont remember seeing any mk4's.. but he did hav quite a stylish mk3 he's been working on. i would love to go , but when i put down 301 or some thing like that, well you get the picture.. not to mention i have yet to get my car...

john, that sounds like either air in your heater core or a leak in your heater core.. it's a fun job to do by your self :biglaugh:

i like the 245 look.. no problems so far..