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I know there are threads about this already but I haven't found one that would really help my situation. I have a stock 7mgte with a clutch that is starting to slip, so I am looking to replace it with something stronger than stock but not crazy strong or harsh I am looking at a stage 2 type of...

I don't need anything fancy just want a cheap metal one lol

I used my friend's timing light. I need to replace my CPS cape because if I remove it I think it will fall apart lol I would like a metal replacement but the one from DM is too expensive for a cap. When I put it in I carefully removed it to make sure the head was still in the correct place and...

No racing or hard driving until I get a new clutch lol but right now I need to figure out my timing issue, it was perfect until I changed my thermostat housing and today we set the motor to TDC and the CPS to TDC and I checked it multiple times to make sure the gear didn't move and the mark is...

Well today I took the car to my friend's shop and we set it to TDC, lined up the mark on the crank to 0 and set the CPS accordingly and checked the timing. It's still f'ing off lol, the mark shows about an inch to the left of the block where the numbers are my friend suggested that the CPS could...

All but one, the clutch lol but I will be doing that soon either with stock or stage 1. I want to go with a beefier clutch to make the labor more worth it. It would have taken me much longer to resolve these issues without you guys and as always thank you all.

No just another stock AFM, I've heard you can use the Lexus AFM on a stock 7M without issues since the ECU compensates it just allows you to use that extra air if needed. I just played it safe and got a replacement.

The past few days it's been raining but this afternoon the sun came out and beautiful mid 60s degree weather

Old AFM on the left new one on the right with the metal adapter

I replaced the AFM and now she idles perfectly, no more error codes, and boosts nicely. Here is a pic of the AFMs new one is on the right with the LIPP air filter adapter.

There is more than one? lol Thanks My replacement AFM sensor just arrived, time to install it along with my LIPP aluminum air filter adapter

I've read once you break it in it's not as harsh and apparently you break it in by doing launches?

Where is the starter located?

I need to change my clutch very soon it's starting the slip, so I am looking at the ACT TS2-HDG6 6 puck clutch kit on driftmotion, any recommendations for a street car? I plan to get it up to 400-500hp in the future with a 1jz.

Well it seems my AFM sensor is bad I bought one from a member on here and waiting for it to arrive in a day or two now. I also ordered an LIPP air filter adapter, aluminum instead of the crappy stock plastic that broke on me.

Once I have time to open up my dash and take a look at everything I am sure I can draw up some ideas to make a bracket that holds the tablet securely. My main concern is figuring out how to block the heat from that area. I just realized I have a double din dash kit, I shall check that out to...

Not saying it's hard I just don't like that route because it won't do what I exactly want lol. Tape will get loose over time and since the area behind the radio gets pretty warm the adhesive will get gooey on long drives and tapping on the screen along with bumps in the road and gooey tape won't...

I actually want another dash so I practice my cut outs with that and test fit everything but it's hard to find MK3s in junkyards in my area.

lol I don't want to ruin the tablet I was thinking of shaping some metal brackets that would bolt to the stock radio cage/brackets

Thanks, I've been checking that site out and it has been helpful but I need some supra specific help with like making mounting brackets and such.