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darn, im prett stoked still i bought it a few months after you put the info out. and my car has made good power, 324/318 hp/trq @ 13.5 psi, on the stock ct26. prolly could have made more but the fuel pump wasn't flowing enough fuel(stock) hopefully by june some progress on the timing...

yep! another good question to ask! from what i've been told if the head is warped past limits it should be straitend in an oven/heating kelm/bath before it's milled of find a head that is not so far out of tolerences. what happens is the cam jurnals become out of line, or distorted in...

any news on the timing control?? it's been 237 days i was just reading though and got curious if it's working solid and is adjustable.. ' thanks doc!

How can I overclock my computer? Its not the best or anything but I have NO clue how to do this but want a little more performance for COD4. AMD 64 3000+ (1.8) sapphire x800pro 1 gig pc3200 I would mainly like to overlock my cpu. I have two fans on the side of my case and a LARGE fan...

so it's working then??

40-45 for the head or the block is what i pay, a surface is a surface to my machiniest.. altough, it pays not to be lazy and do the tear down your self, if you bring it in and drop it off with out removing every thing it raises the cost. on the head every thing but the valves need to be...

i made 324/317 whp/trq on the stock turbo, @13.5psi fallin to about 12 by redline. n/a cams, though i have ebay front mount, 2.5inch hard pipes full three inch and maft pro.

ive been to 155/160 a few times. i do admit it helps havin top end power! i have a pre89 speedo, 3.91's and i have put the needle into the br of brake twice. ive done 105 in the 1/4 :icon_bigg

car is parked.

subies are cools cars, i have a great idea for a rear engine 4wd forumla 1 style racer.

i pulled the origonal one that failed apart, the first cup had small cracks or tears in it.. the clean fluid in the master resivor also got dirty about the time this sucker went out.. so buy another one and have it sleeved? i have a friend who works at a machine shop, i'll have to...

wow, well the master moves but not so much i would belive it's effect the clutch that much, it wiggles i should say.. only when being depressed not phsyicaly loose. i looked at the push rod and it appears this master has started to leak..

eh i desirve it. lol i knew it's possible to break the blocks (but forgotten) and should not have suggest it,. now i think about it when i did mine it was a 1/8 turn, i did hand tight once and on tear down found a stud or two lose though i tore down around the 500mile mark and never...

i would suggest purchasing the correct tap and cleaning out the head stud holes in the block. their blind holes so make sure you get a tap designed for blind holes. i used the allen on mine, but pretty much just hand tight, i went like a 1/4 turn past hand tight just to make sure they...

both slave and master are less the 6 months old, purchases from toyota, my brother just got home i'll check on the flex issue..

are you saying it isn't tight enough or that it's prolly pushing fluid past it again? or fire wall flex?

well, since i put in my new rps max clutch, i have broke a slave. had a master go bad on me, and now another clutch pedle engagment problem.. not to mention, i have a ss flex line already i just swapped that in with the new master, the master and slave are oem toyota i purchased 6 months...

Ron, I just dyno'd 324 at RREV on my 7m, you think your little 2jz can beat that! =P. It would be sweet to have a little mini-meet at RREV the day of your dyno/tune with a buncha mk3's..

Went to Rrev today and got 2 hours of dyno pulls in. Here's the best I came up with. 13psi - 324rwhp/317tq. 11psi - 314rwhp/312tq. 7mgte, stock ct26 with chipped impeller blades/some turbo whine. Aeromotive FPR, 2.5" hardpipes, 24x12x3 intercooler, 3" turbo back exhaust, maft pro on speed...

i dont think that would work, isn'/t the seat of the valve part of the diaphragm, if so their shaped differently. cone vs ball