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wot= no input from o2 sensor so no. The heater circuit is out of range is what the ohms are telling you. If the ecu is telling you its lean it has maxed out the fuel trims with the range it has and cant add enough fuel to keep things in check. Check for vac leaks, exhaust leaks (skewed o2...

Get a scope and have a look down there, rotate the motor and get the #1 piston at the bottom of the stroke so you can see the walls too.

run down to napa and grab a block tester kit, it will tell you if exhaust gas is in the coolant. if yes, bhg. (most of the time, could be a few other things) Does it overheat? low on coolant?

whats wrong with the 7m? and im sucker for 2j's so i tip my hat: 1-2j/0-7m how ever the 7m is growing on me, just VERY slowly

sooo this was a case of old rings meets new bore?

a REAL walbro should have no problem, of course your specs as asked are needed though

yes it is, and try a forum member as many have switched to other forums of tuning and no longer need the afm even though it works. The afm electronics is not to be cleaned, as you already found out. you can leave it unpluged which puts the car in limp mode, nothing over 3000rpms iirc. try...

very good thank you sir!

see i knew that voice in my head was trying to say something, i just couldnt make it out! how did you do yours? punch them out, drill em out, weld in new fittings or what?

well, tore out the pcv system and catch can and re did it to oem style with 3/4 hose that fits the 1/2 fittings o.d. perfectly and opened up the port on the intake tube to 1/2 as well. seems it might be over kill with the hose size but at least its done. only restriction is the two valve cover...

does the ge ecu pull timing in the upper rpms like the gte?

sob, i can say it wasnt ME that did it but who knows what techs laid their hands on her over the years, at this point its over compensate with some bigger lines or a rebuild? of course ill pull all the lines to make sure theres no blockage or anything else that could cause this...;) how did...

36ft lbs on this past thursday. #1 is good in compression, or would that dip ive seen in pics of yours allow for good compression but lots of blow by?

side note, if you dont plug the vacuum line to the afpr does the engine idle normally or is there any change?

ill check the hose size in the am, but the hose fits perfectly over the stock valve cover nipples so I.Ds match. you thinking bigger lines ij?

all had antisieze on them when i last changed them and all of them did when they went back in a few hours ago, thank ij! No issues im trying to solve with this, just wanted a 2nd or 3rd opinion. Only reason i pulled them was to do a compression test due to some smoke at about 120mph earlier...

start upgrading. dp, fp, ic, etc etc. easy way is manual boost controller, but more boost is not the answer if the entire system as a whole isnt up to par and able to handle it.

few more

how do these look? gapped .28 and one step colder then stock and about 1000 miles on the plugs My thoughts, rich due to the carbon build up on the base ring, however im not seeing a full turn up the first thread on a few. and heat range seems good but whats with the coloring on the elbow of...

what are your plugs at? what brand and gap....