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funny because the tester can be rented at autozone for FREE.

dont just buy parts! ^^ you can test the radiator cap as well!

Pressure check the cooling system. With it pressurized you should be able to find an external leak fairly easy.

gte= 5 wire plug ge= 7 wire plug

:kickinthenuts:

have you looked in the 2j/1j section? there are more then enough lists and write ups. since your no longer going to b 7m... this is in the wrong section ;)

cold START injector. its in the name it self. and there is an air temp sensor, built into the afm electronics case itself. and cars run rich at start up to get them to operating temps faster, jj knows the ecu and its parameters like nobody else ive ran across, or ever will for that matter...

here is the tsrm (service manual) that will cover how to test just about anything on the car, http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx an yes it sounds like the afm is trash if your readings were all over the scale. post a wanted add in the for sale section. any afm from...

whats with the yelling? ;) Check the tsrm, and follow those trouble shooting guidelines, that will get you farther,faster and more accurately then us shooting the shit playing online techs :D Once things get ruled out it makes it easier for the guys that know the electric system to help...

Race gas to verify would be easy enough. how much timing does the ecu pull above 5700rpms (iirc) and why? Id expect kr in lower rpms where there is timing being added, not pulled.

your compression is higher, and you stuck a turbo on it, and upped the boost. You think your higher compression might have something to do with it? :)

any codes?

im down for one, let me know when you get into testing one out or something!

looks awesome man! what type of price do you guys expect? ball park of course for now...

If you get rx-7 ones they should be flow tested and cleaned by an injector shop (NOT bob at midas down the street) and this should apply to any used injector your thinking of using. Check MKIIItech.com, dr.j has a nice thread on the 550 options over there!

maybe with a 150 shot of nos ;)

Put one lead on the ks signal and one on the e1 signal. then make sure the hz is good and increase rpm and it should rise accordingly. Check all 5 wires at the AFM to ecu. Your testing that there is no break in the wires under the hood. You have to remove the glove box to get to it. Follow...

15-20 hz at idle. and increasing with rpms.

check the continuity of the connector to the ecu, and clean out the connector on the afm side. (plug on harness)